Monday, March 9, 2015

Grow longer hair with New Moon Trims (March & April dates)



Tired of slow hair growth? 

Trying to grow out a short cut?

Recovering from hair loss?




Stimulate your hair growth rate by trimming your hair during high energy days. Each month, there are certain high energy days based on the position of the moon, in which hair growth is optimal. For healthy hair you should have a regular trim schedule. The Coily Queens regimen recommends trimming every 4th month, this equals 3 time a year. It only takes one new moon trim to stimulate your hair growth rate, this is not something you must do each month.


FOR MORE INFORMATION ON NEW MOON PHASE TRIMMING, GO HERE.


DO A 40 DAY NEW MOON TRIM CHALLENGE, HERE.



MARCH DATES:
23rd
27th
28th

APRIL DATES:
2nd (super energy day)
19th
23rd-25th
28th-30th

 Also use the new moon phase to start a new hair treatment. Getting ready to take a new hair vitamin? Start taking them on a high energy day.

Try new moon phase trimming when it is time for your next trim. All you have are dead ends to lose.



Wednesday, March 4, 2015

Achieving moisturized, defined, elongated twist outs



The twist out is the most popular style amongst Afro naturals. Once you perfect your twist out it is also one of the most easiest styles to create and maintain. The Coily Queens regimen has a conditioner pyramid it recommends for styling. This conditioner pyramid allows your twist outs to remain hydrated and defined, yet still have awesome elongation.. The conditioner pyramid helps you keep shrinkage to a minimum. Following the conditioner pyramid enables you to have good coil definition while still showing off your hair length.


DO NOT FOLLOW THIS IF YOU ARE DEALING WITH VERY DRY HAIR AND LOTS OF KNOTS AND TANGLES. CORRECT YOUR DRY HAIR ISSUE FIRST,  THEN REVISIT THIS STYLE METHOD. 

FOR HELP WITH YOUR DRY HAIR SEE THE DRY HAIR CHECKLIST, TO GET YOUR HAIR ON THE RIGHT TRACK.

THE COILY QUEENS 4 DAY CONDITIONING PYRAMID 
(For those who shampoo twice a week the CQ way)

Wash day:
Set your two strand twists with a thick creamy leave in conditioner or curl cream. It must be a cream product.
 2nd day:
When you re-twist at night use a hair milk or lotion conditioner. Follow with a natural oil. Doing the flat twist method is suggested for even better stretch.  
3rd day:
Set your twists with a non water based  conditioner, followed by a natural oil.
4th day:
Time for Coily Queens to wash their hair. But if you choose not to, then continue to set your twist out with the non water based conditioner, followed by a natural oil. Repeat until wash day. 




THE COILY QUEENS 7 DAY CONDITIONING PYRAMID

This is a style technique for those who want elongation with their coil definition

Wash day:
You will set your two strand twists, with a thick creme leave in conditioner or curl cream. It must be a creme product
2nd day:
When you set your hair at night only use a natural oil such as avocado or EVOO.  
3rd day:
Set hair with a lotion leave in or hair milk. It must be a lotion product. When you set your twist out it would be best to flat twist than two strand twist. Reminder:
You will apply a little natural oil everyday as per the Coily Queens Regimen.

4th day:
You apply a non water based product to your hair when you set your twists. You can follow with a natural oil as usual. EACH DAY YOU WILL NOTICE MORE STRETCH TO YOUR TWIST OUTS, YET YOU ARE NOT DRYING YOUR HAIR OUT. USING DIFFERENT TYPES OF CONDITIONERS TO NOURISH AND LUBRICATE KEEPS YOUR HAIR FROM DRYING OUT.
5th day:

If you feel like you are in need of extra moisture then use a liquid leave in conditioner to set your twists at night. If you feel your hair is doing fine with hydration then only apply a little of the non water based conditioner followed by a natural oil.   Repeat day 5 instructions, daily until you wash your hair.

Whether you follow the 4 day pyramid or the 7 day pyramid both of these will give you nice elongation without sacrificing hydration or coil definition. Follow each suggestion as listed for the best results.

For a list of product suggestions go here

HAPPY TWISTING!!!

The leave in conditioner


 
Afro hair is curly hair and curly hair thrives on moisture. The hair care regimen of those with curly hair must consist of products which feed the hair moisture and products that are properly PH balanced for the hair. There are 3 categories of  hair care: cleansers, conditioners and stylers. Conditioners are the most important of the three. There are different types of conditioners such as: deep conditioners, rinse out quick conditioners, protein treatments and leave in conditioners. The leave in conditioners is the most important product in your hair care regimen. The leave in conditioner is comprised of ingredients which can remain on the hair to provide continuous conditioning to Afro curly hair through out the day. The leave in conditioner was created for your Afro curly hair.



If you are on a budget, the leave in conditioner is the one product you want to splurge on. A good leave in is essential to longer growth retention.  Be sure to invest in a leave in conditioner that is not made up of ,a ton of harsh ingredients. Remember this product remains on your hair until washing, what goes on the hair eventually seeps onto the scalp. Consider this when you shop for your leave in conditioner. 

SEVEN QUALITIES TO LOOK FOR  IN A  LEAVE IN CONDITIONER:
1. PH not over 5.0
2. Water as the first ingredient
3. Contains natural butters, oils,  and extracts
4. Least harsh ingredients
5. Economically priced ($1.50 or less per ounce)
6. The colder the touch of the product the more moisturizing   I find it to be. 
7. Does it leave the hair moisturized for 2 days or more?

THE WRONG PH BALANCED PRODUCT CAN CREATE A MESS!
The PH of the product is very important because if the PH is over 6.0 that product stands a good chance at raising the hair cuticle. When the hair cuticle is raised higher, moisture quickly escapes the hair. This leaves you with dry, hard hair that forms knots when you manipulate it.  You can keep piling on moisturizer but it will feel as though your hair is soaking up the product yet is still not any softer. In reality the product is just sitting on top of your hair shaft causing buildup, this also causes your hair to dry out even more. Day after day you have applied this high PH product to your hair, and after a week you have a huge brittle mess! This is why PH is so important.

ROTATE THREE LEAVE IN CONDITIONERS
The Coily Queens regimen suggest you have at least 3 leave in conditioners you rotate within your regimen. WHY? Well the needs of our hair changes from time to time,  for various reasons. It is very common to have an awesome product you love and then one day it just no longer works the same. If you rotate your products this is less likely to happen. 

A PRODUCT DOES NOT HAVE TO SAY "LEAVE IN CONDITIONER" ON THE BOTTLE, IT ONLY NEEDS TO CONTAIN INGREDIENTS THAT CONDITION AND CAN BE LEFT ON THE HAIR.

A GOOD LEAVE IN CONDITIONER WILL ALSO DOUBLE AS A STYLER. 


LEAVE IN CONDITIONERS I LIKE, THAT PERFORM AS CONDITIONERS AND STYLERS.

SHAMPOO 1st DAY RICH CREAMY LEAVE IN CONDITIONERS>>>>>>>
Shea moisture curl enhancing smoothie

Cantu Shea Butter leave in conditioner

Afro Stretch creme by 4Naturals

Shea moisture restorative conditioner
Elasta QP Olive oil Mango butter curl pudding
Taliah Waajiid curl defining creme
AS I AM DOUBLE BUTTER CREAM (for 1st day conditioning use the As I am leave in under it)  

Read my review on the As I am double butter cream here.
 
These are great 2nd or 3rd day  lotion conditioners>>>>>
As I am leave in conditioner
Shea moisture milk
Karen Body Beautiful sweet ambroisa leave in


Green magic cream by Liquid Gold products

These products are great for 3rd day styling. These products keep the hair soft, defined and lubricated while giving the hair more stretch. You get less shrinkage and more elongation for your twist outs. 

Green Magic cream
As I am double butter cream
SHEA YOGURT HAIR MOISTURIZERS by Alikay naturals.


Friday, February 27, 2015

Alternative ways to deep condition with heat, when you have no hooded dryer


For better moisture infusion you should always use heat when you deep condition your hair. The heat makes the hair cuticle open wider, this enables the deep conditioner to absorb all of its benefits. Heat from a hooded dryer or steamer is the recommended heat source.

What does one do if you do not have a hooded dryer or steamer?


Different ways to create heat when you deep condition

4 alternatives to hooded dryers:

Blow dryer hooded attachment
Purchase hooded attachment here

If you have a handheld blow dryer, you can purchase a very inexpensive bonnet attachment. Once attached it works just as good as a hooded dryer.The bonnets only attach to certain types of blow dryers so be sure it will fit your blow dryer. These travel really well and are easy to set up.


Heated conditioner method

1. Put deep conditioner in a bowl.
2. Boil some water in a pot.
3. Remove from heat and sit bowl of conditioner inside hot water.
4. Cover with a top for 5 minutes. 5. Quickly apply conditioner onto hair while it is still warm. 
6. Cover hair with a plastic cap, then cover cap with a towel. 
7. Proceed with housework, exercise, errands any activity which generates heat.   
8. Allow warm conditioner to marinate on your hair for 20 minutes, then rinse out with cold water. 

YOU WILL HAVE SOFT, LUSCIOUS HAIR!






Baggy method overnight


1. Apply lots of conditioner to clean hair
2. Cover with a plastic cap.
3. Then cover cap with a hat or scarf.
4. Allow conditioner to sit on hair overnight.
5. Rinse out in morning with cool water.
6. Proceed with other treatments and styling.




Hot towel steam method
supplies needed: 2 small towels, deep conditioner, 2 plastic conditioning caps
1. Soak two bath cloths in hot water.
2. Shampoo hair.
3. Apply deep conditioner and quickly cover hair with one hot  towel, followed by a plastic conditioning cap.
4. Then apply second hot cloth on top of cap followed by a second conditioning cap. Wrap head in a topsie turby or a bath towel. 
5. Rinse out with cool water, after 20 minutes.



Old fashion steam method
1. Boil water, pour into a big bowl. 
2. Apply deep conditioner but do not cover with a plastic cap. 
3. Using a large bath towel cover head and hold over bowl, making an effort to keep all steam inside towel and going on your hair. Sit up as much as you need. Steam for 15 minutes. 

Be very careful not to burn yourself with hot water. 
This method is not for the clumsy. 



Each of the above methods help you condition your hair better.
But remember a hooded dryer or steamer is a good investment for coily hair care.


Thursday, February 26, 2015

Help my hair is breaking!




Nothing makes you sigh harder, on your hair journey, than finding breakage. But do not panic because that creates stress, and stress is a top cause of some hair loss. Take an inventory of all broken areas, then follow these steps.

BREAKAGE

STEP ONE:  Access whether it is breakage or shedding.

Take a close look at the hair from your comb or sink. Are the majority of the pieces shorter than your hair? Do you see splits on the strands? If you answer yes to either of these questions then you are dealing with breakage and you want to correct this issue immediately.

But say  the majority of those strands you check are the same length as your hair. Check to see if you can see a white bulb on one end of the strands. The presence of a white bulb means that hair came from the root. This is shed hair. Now you must determine if this is normal shedding or excess shedding. Proceed to step four if your hair loss is due to shedding and not breakage.

STEP TWO:  Pinpoint the root cause of the breakage, and stop that action.

12 causes of breakage:
1. Constant dry, brittle hair
2. Weak hair from protein loss.
3. Untangling hair while wet or dry. (untangle damp)
4. Handling the hair rough.
5. Brushing your hair.
6. Tight cornrows
7. Tight braid extensions
8. Extensions applied improperly.
9. Products with harsh ingredients.
10. Hats, wigs and scarfs used can cause traction alopecia.
11. Your ends rubbing against harsh fabrics
12. Flat irons, pressing combs, blow dryers and hair color.

The leading causes of breakage is dry hair and protein loss. Most of what is listed above will fall into the loss of moisture category or protein loss. Access your regimen and pinpoint which one of the things listed above are you doing.  Understand that some of these causes, can cause breakage from just doing them one time. Once you determine what you are doing on the list, ask yourself why you have that step in your hair regimen. Then ask yourself do you really need that in your regimen. If you truly need it, then find a healthier alternative. Until you find an alternative stop doing that to your hair. Remember your goal is to stop the breakage. 
 



STEP THREE:  Repair the damage, if it is breakage.


This is a good time for a good trim. Depending on the severity of your breakage you may require a good cut. Do not hold on to damaged ugly ends. You will be surprised how fast your hair grows back after a good cut.

Once you have got you cut, now it is time to add strength to your hair by using protein. Your hair is mostly protein, but when it becomes damaged you have loss protein. A loss of protein leaves holes on your hair strands. Those weakened hair strands will surely break off without doing a good protein treatment. For severe breakage I recommend the aphogee 2 step treatment. Your first aphogee treatment will reduce your breakage by 50% or more. You wait 6 weeks then repeat the treatment. After 2 or 3 treatments your breakage should slow down to hardly nothing. If you have stopped doing what caused your breakage in the first place.



The aphogee 2 step treatment 

INCREASE LEAN PROTEINS IN YOUR DIET. TAKING A HAIR VITAMIN CAN HELP YOUR HAIR GROW IN STRONGER SO IT IS LESS LIKELY TO BREAK SO EASILY. HAIR VITAMINS DO WORK AND ARE GOOD INVESTMENTS.



SHEDDING

STEP FOUR:  You have accessed that your hair is shedding.

NORMAL SHEDDING

Hair sheds daily between 50 to 150 strands. Shedding is a normal stage in which your hair must go through. However your hair should not shed in clumps. When you style your hair in the morning you will have the most shedding, because the body repairs itself as we sleep. If you manipulate your hair several times a day expect the shed hair to slide out. If you are not finger combing or combing your hair daily then expect for the shed hair to build up. For example, if you have your hair in two strand twists for a week, expect all the accumulated daily shed hair to come out once you finger comb it. It will look like more hair than usual that is because it is accumulative shedding. Shed hairs should be the same length as your hair. So shed hair will be longer pieces and breakage will be shorter pieces. 

 
Excess shedding? Time to call the doctor.


EXCESS SHEDDING 

What if my hair is daily shedding in clumps?

When this happens the root cause is coming from the roots. So this is an internal issue, which requires an internal solution. Fish oil and a hair skin and nail supplement will sometimes reduce excess shedding. When the cause of your excess shedding is a vitamin deficiency. The only way you can accurately know whether you have a vitamin deficiency is to have your doctor perform blood tests. Seeking a doctors immediate attention when your hair is shedding in clumps is highly recommended, because this could mean the indication of an underlying health issue.  

Potential causes of excess shedding:
Pregnancy causes after pregnancy excess shedding.
Some illnesses
After surgery
Chronic stress
One traumatic stress situation
Certain products
Certain medications
Vitamin deficiency

BESIDES PREGNANCY SHEDDING MOST OF THESE ARE SERIOUS CONDITIONS. PLEASE SEE A DOCTOR ASAP AND TELL THE DOCTOR EVERYTHING.

IF YOU HEAR OR FEEL SNAPPING AND POPPING, WHEN YOU USE A COMB, THEN IT IS TIME TO PUT THE COMB AWAY AND FINGER COMB.

Be proactive with your hair care, stop breakage before it becomes to much. Do these two hair checkups twice a month to stay on top of your hair care. 


Thursday, February 19, 2015

Two hair checks you should do twice a month.



Sometimes breakage seems to just come out of no where, but the fact is, it started somewhere. Breakage does not just happen, it happens as a result of something you are doing or not doing. If you are on a journey to grow your hair as long and healthy as possible, here are two hair care checks you should do twice a month.

Hair check #1
HAIR WEBBING
(A COILY QUEEN TERM)

I created this term to describe what the hair does when it is not properly hydrated. It forms webs when you separate it. When the hair sticks  together in web like fashion this is called webbing. When the hair webs, this means your moisture routine is not working properly for you. 


This is a check up you want to do every other week. You always want to be proactive with hydration. Check four areas of your hair, the top, back and both sides of your hair for webbing. Just examine a small section from each area,  if more than two areas show webbing, this means your hair is not hydrated enough. Dehydrated hair left untreated will eventually break or split. So correction is in order. Before you blame your moisturizers, take a good look at all the other products you use on your hair. Certain harsh ingredients can pull the moisture out of your hair. Examine your cleansing and conditioning technique, be sure you are not missing any steps and you are shampooing and conditioning correctly.


It maybe time for a moisture infusion to get your hair hydrated correctly.  The nine day moisture treatment will help to get your moisture levels on the right track. Nine day treatment


Hair check #2
The sink test

Untangle your hair over the white sink in your bathroom. Examine the hair you see fall onto the sink. How does it look? If you see long pieces the length of your hair, that is normal shedding. If you see hair which is shorter than your hair that is breakage. If you see very small pieces of hair no longer than an eyelash, those are from split ends. Those small pieces of hair have broken off from your hair strands, and this has left a weak spot on your hair strand. This means it is likely that your hair will eventually break, even with normal manipulation. 

WHAT SHOULD YOU DO?

First shampoo and deep condition your hair correctly. Steps to correct deep conditioning here. Once you have finished and your hair is dry, smooth your fingers through your strands again. If you still see short pieces in the sink, then do a protein treatment asap, to stop the breakage.

WHAT WILL THE PROTEIN TREATMENT DO?

 The protein will stick to the individual hair strands, and give them the strength they need to survive manipulation. The hydrolyzed keratin protein will fill in any holes on the hair strands, left from the splits. After using a good protein treatment such as the aphogee 2 step, your breakage should stop by 50% or more. You should no longer see those short pieces in the sink. Be sure to follow the instructions of the protein treatment you choose.

Protein treatments Coily Queen recommended
Aphogee 2 step treatment
Shea Moisture weekly hair & scalp therapy
(lime green label)

TIP: IF YOU LIKE YOU CAN APPLY THE PROTEIN ONLY TO THE ENDS OF YOUR HAIR. DO THIS IF YOUR BREAKAGE IS NOT SEVERE. YOU HAVE TO BE THE BEST JUDGE IF YOU WANT TO TAKE THAT CHANCE OR NOT.




Tuesday, January 27, 2015

Top cleansers for 4C Afro coily hair



Hair grows best on a clean scalp, therefore cleaning the hair on a frequent basis is important to the health of your hair.




Those with coily curly hair should stay away from cleansers which dry the hair out. Stay away from sulfates and alcohols, as they dry and tangle coily curly hair. When you get ready to purchase your cleansers look for non sulfate shampoos, conditioning cleansers or co wash products.


IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW THAT LONG TERM USE OF SULFATES LEADS TO HAIR LOSS

Here are some cleansers that perform well on Afro coily hair. These cleansers leave the hair clean without creating excess tangles during the wash session.

Shea Moisture curl & shine shampoo
  • A non sulfate shampoo
  • Delivers a rich lather
  • Cleanses good in one lathers if you like
  • Lasts a long time
  • Leaves your hair soft and does not tangle the hair




Shea Moisture Moisture Retention Shampoo
  • Contains no sulfates
  • Rich thick lather
  • Product lasts a long time
  • Strengthens damaged  hair 
  • Helps very dry hair

 

Shea Moisture black soap shampoo
  • Use only when you need a deep cleansing (once per month)
  • Cleanses in one lather if needed
  • Deep cleanses really good without tangling the hair
  • Great clarifying shampoo 

 


Lisa Rachel conditioning cleanser
  • Non sulfate cleanser
  • Cleans and conditions in one step
  • Leaves your hair soft and easy to untangle
  • Comes with a pump so it is easy to use in the shower
  • A little goes a long way
  • PH balance of 4  



As I am Curl Clarity Shampoo
  • PH 5.5
  • Sulfate free
  • Safe for color treated hair
  • Removes buildup gently

 

As I am Coconut Co Wash
  • PH 5.5
  • Adds moisture to the hair
  • Makes detangling a breeze
  • Eliminates DHT from the scalp
  • Great for those dealing with hair loss

 

Eden Bodyworks Cleansing CoWash
  • A moisturizing cleansing conditioner
  • Gently cleans hair
  • All natural
  • Sulfate free 




Whichever product you choose to use be sure it is formulated to clean the hair. Conditioners are not made to clean the hair, unless it says cleansing conditioner on the product.