How to figure your curl type

Curl type describes the way your hair curls and the size of your curls. Most black people fall into the type 4 classification. This article will cover type 4A, 4B, and 4C.  

• Do not comb or brush your hair
• Apply little bit of leave in conditioner into hair. 
• Fingercomb and examine your strands.
• Most people have more than one curl type.
• Examine hair on top, sides, crown and nape.
• The dominate curl pattern is your curl type.

TYPE 4A

TYPE 4B

TYPE 4C

Are you type 4c?

If your coils are very small, like the spring in a ball point pen, you are 4C. You have low to no shine. Your hair is dense and can give the appearance of being wooley, coarse or kinky. 

Curl type does not dictate what care products you use on your hair. Curl type only makes a difference in how you achieve a style and the final look of a style. A 4a wash and go will look slightly different than a 4c wash and go. 

Check out my list of products that work great on 4C hair. 

Cold water sealing your twist out

The Coily Queens regimen uses a cold water sealing method to help you achieve better looking twist outs.  Cold water makes the hair cuticle lay flatter. It seals your hair giving you better twist definition, hold and less frizz. Cold water sealing also enables the hair to retain moisture longer.

Your porosity does not matter for this technique!

4 WAYS TO COLD WATER SEAL

1. Cold water quick rinse

This consists of running cold water over your twists for 10 seconds. Follow up with more oil. This works best on your shampoo day. This is done after creating your two strand twists. Apply more moisturizer, after rinsing if needed. 

2. Cold water spray

Put a spray bottle of filtered water in the fridge and let it chill. After completing your two strand twists, spray each twist with cold water.

3. Ice cube sealing

Rub each twist with an ice cube.

4. Cold leave in or styler

Put your leave in conditioner in the refrigerator, until it is cold.  Apply to your hair as you twist it.  

Either one of these cold water sealing methods will give you smoother twist outs, with better coil definition. Choose the one that is best for you. Your porosity does not matter.

Purchasing bentonite clay for your hair

Clay washes for the hair are steadily growing in popularity. The reasons they are so popular with coily naturals is their ability to deep cleanse the hair without tangling it. Clay washes do an excellent job of making your natural curl pattern pop.  Most deep cleansers are stripping and leave the hair full of tangles. That is not the case with bentonite clay.  

There are many clay washes on the market. But they are expensive.  However a clay wash is very simple to create on your own. There are several different types of clays, you can purchase. This article will focus on choosing a Bentonite clay for your DIY. Bentonite clay is the most popular clay used on the hair. 

GREAT DEAL ON BENTONITE CLAY

Bentonite clay comes as: sodium bentonite or calcium bentonite clay. You will notice the sodium bentonite is cheaper than the calcium bentonite. When creating a wash for your hair, always choose calcium bentonite. Why? Because the sodium is more absorbent and therefore likely to strip the hair. The sodium  bentonite is more detoxing than the calcium bentonite.

Bentonite clay contains both sodium and calcium. However the ones labeled sodium bentonite, have a higher content of sodium. This means the PH will be higher and it cleanses deeper. So the rule is to choose calcium. If you already have the sodium bentonite, use it on your face. 

Calcium bentonite contains more silica. 
Bentonite clay pulls toxins from your hair and then it deposits. Sodium Bentonite will deposit more sodium and the calcium bentonite will deposit calcium and silica. 

For the hair choose Calcium Bentonite 
For the skin choose Sodium Bentonite 

ACTUAL PRODUCT MIXED

IMPORTANT:

Never prepare or store your bentonite clay in any type of metal. Once the clay touches metal, all the benefits of the clay are destroyed. Use glass, ceramic or wood. 

CQ Detox 7

• 1/2 cup of bentonite clay
• 1/4 cup of red clay
• 1 tbsp apple cider vinegar
• 1/4 cup of aloe vera juice
• 1/2 cup of spring water (warm)

Deep cleansing instructions

• Allow warm water to run over hair for 1 minute
• Generously apply the Detox 7
• Cover with plastic cap
• Wrap in a towel or scarf
• Leave on for 1 hour
• Rinse off completely with warm water
• Once all clay detox is out, if your hair feels conditioned, proceed with your leave in conditioner. 
• If your hair does not feel feel conditioned enough then apply a deep conditioner

ACTUAL PRODUCT MIXED 

GOT MORE QUESTIONS ABOUT CLEANSING WITH CLAY? GO HERE

CQ Clay Cleansing conditioning 

• 1/2 warm spring water (warm it up not using anything metal)
• 1/2 Moroccan red clay
• 2 tablespoons bentonite clay
• 1 tbsp ACV
• 1/4 cup MAYO (KRAFT REAL MAYO)

Instructions:

• Generously apply to wet hair
• Cover with plastic cap and scarf
• Let it sit on hair 1 to 3 hours.
• Rinse out well
• Apply your leave conditioner, etc. 

Botanical gels a healthier alternative for your wash and goes

Gels are used for defining curls, holding them in place or smoothing down the hair. Commonly used for the wash and go, buns, updos and sometimes a twist out.  You will use gel anytime you want more hold. 

What you apply to the hair strands, will eventually seep into the hair follicles.  Any product which sits on the hair, should be filled with good ingredients. When a gel is filled with a lot of alcohols, proteins, dyes and harsh ingredients. They cause your hair strands to dry out quick, and break. They clog your hair follicles and retard your hair growth. They also lead to major scalp irritations. 

There are many gels which work awesome on coily hair. But the popular ones are filled with lots of bad dyes and ingredients. 

A botanical gel is not harsh like regular gels. They are filled with plant extracts which give the hair hold, without making it crunchy and drying it out. Always expect to pay more for a botanical gel. Consider it the same as buying fresh vegetables versus fast food. 

The most popular gel used by naturals is the eco styler gel. It is cheap and it works for most. However compare the ingredients on your jar of eco styler gel to the ingredients I have listed below for a few botanical gels. 

BIG DIFFERENCE HUH? 
I KNOW?
THE PROOF IS ON THE JAR.

Here are my top pics for botanical gels and custards. 

Kinky Curly Curling Custard (KCCC)
Ingredients:  Water, horsetail, chamomile, nettle and marshmellow, organic aloe vera juice, agave nectar extract, pectin, citric acid, vitamin E, potassium sorbate, natural fragrance.

• Firm, hold no crunch
• Hold lasts up to 3 days.
• Mixes well with most products
• No flaking
• Not sticky, if you do not overuse
• A little goes a long way.
• Lasts a long time. 

Curly Magic curl stimulator
Ingredients:  Aloe Vera, marshmellow root, chamomile, nettle  and horsetail extract, agave nectar extract, Vitamin E, citric acid, Potassium Sorbate, natural fragrance. 

• Aloe Vera based 
• Long lasting definition 
• Firm hold

Order here!

Mielle Organics Honey and Ginger styling gel
Ingredients:  Water, Glycerin, honey, aloe Vera, acrylates polymer, coconut oil, babassu oil, shea butter, maltodextrin/VP polymer, marshmellow extract, Pectin, parfum, Carbomer, Xanthan gum, Dehydroacetic acid, Benzyl alcohol

• Great definition
• Frizz reduction
• 70% organic ingredients

Obia Curl enhancing custard
Ingredients:  Water, Olive oil, grape seed oil, Carbomer, Hydrolyzed wheat protein, egetable glycerin, Gluconolacton and Sodium Benzoate, Xantham gum, Fragrance. 

• PH balanced
• non alchohol
• nourishing oils
• Non drying
• Does not leave hair crunchy. 

Compare the above ingredients with that of cheaper gels such as eco styler gel.

How to work clay into your hair care regimen

Answering all of your questions about clay


 
You have  read about how awesome clay is for the hair.  You would love to try it, but you have no ideal where to start.

Where do I purchase clay?
>>>You can find clays at your local health food stores. You can also find good values on amazon.com
     Here is a great deal on bentonite clay!
     Great buy on Red Clay!

I have seen several kinds of clay which one do I start with?
>>>Red clay aka Moroccan clay, green clay, rhassaoul clay, kaolin clay and bentonite clay. Your jar of clay will tell you the origins of the clay. As a beginner working with clay it is best to start with bentonite clay. Bentonite clay is great for the face and hair.

How do I use it on my hair?
>>>Create your clay mixture and mix into a thick conditioner consistency. Then slather it on the hair being sure to cover all of your hair. Cover hair with plastic conditioning cap for 1 hour. Then rinse with warm water until all clay is removed.

A popular brand of Red Clay! Buy now!

Go ahead and do a face masque with whatever is left from your hair masque. Clay mixes should be made when ready to use.

Cover with a self heating conditioning cap for 1 hour or more.

I purchased some clay, but the jar does not say it can be used on the hair.
>>>Look at the contents of your clay, if it says any of the clays listed above and that you can use it on the face then you are fine. The popular brand of bentonite clay I use does not have instructions for using it on the hair. However I have used it on my hair for years. Be sure your bentonite clay says calcium bentonite. 

Do I have to use apple cider vinegar, in my mix?
>>>The acv helps to lower the PH of the clay, so it is highly recommended to use acv in your clay masque.

How often can I use clay on my hair?
>>>I recommend once per month, however you can use it once a week if you desire. Some people let clay washes take the complete place of their shampoos. Clay cleanses deep but without stripping the hair. If you clay mixture is prepared correctly it will cleanse and condition in one step.

How long do I leave it on my hair?
>>>Cover with a plastic conditioning cap and leave on 1 to 3 hours. 

Do I sit under a dryer?
>>>No it is not recommended. Remember you are working with clay you do not want the clay to dry tight onto your scalp. This will make it hard to rinse off.

Do I still use shampoo after I use clay?
>>>No, the clay is your cleanser. No need to double clean, because that will only take away any conditioning the clay has done for your hair. 

A smooth mix of red clay

This mix is kinda lumpy, you want to mix until creamy like above.

Do I deep condition after a clay treatment?
>>>If your clay mixture is made perfectly for your hair you will not have to. Clay cleans and conditions in one step. However if you find that the conditioning from the clay is not enough you can proceed with deep conditioning. Remember you should be applying a leave in conditioner after every cleanse. So you will have continuous conditioning.  

In addition to cleansing and conditioning clay washes also make your curl pattern more pronounced and your hair easier to untangle. 

For more information about clay washes go here.

Do you have more questions about clay and using it on the hair? Ask below please.

Achieving moisturized, defined, elongated twist outs

The twist out is the most popular style amongst Afro naturals. Once you perfect your twist out it is also one of the most easiest styles to create and maintain. The Coily Queens regimen has a conditioner pyramid it recommends for styling. This conditioner pyramid allows your twist outs to remain hydrated and defined, yet still have awesome elongation.. The conditioner pyramid helps you keep shrinkage to a minimum. Following the conditioner pyramid enables you to have good coil definition while still showing off your hair length.

DO NOT FOLLOW THIS IF YOU ARE DEALING WITH VERY DRY HAIR AND LOTS OF KNOTS AND TANGLES. CORRECT YOUR DRY HAIR ISSUE FIRST,  THEN REVISIT THIS STYLE METHOD. 

FOR HELP WITH YOUR DRY HAIR SEE THE DRY HAIR CHECKLIST, TO GET YOUR HAIR ON THE RIGHT TRACK.

THE COILY QUEENS 4 DAY CONDITIONING PYRAMID 
(For those who shampoo twice a week the CQ way)

Wash day:
Set your two strand twists with a thick creamy leave in conditioner or curl cream. It must be a cream product.
 2nd day:
When you re-twist at night use a hair milk or lotion conditioner. Follow with a natural oil. Doing the flat twist method is suggested for even better stretch.  
3rd day:
Set your twists with a non water based  conditioner, followed by a natural oil.
4th day:
Time for Coily Queens to wash their hair. But if you choose not to, then continue to set your twist out with the non water based conditioner, followed by a natural oil. Repeat until wash day. 

THE COILY QUEENS 7 DAY CONDITIONING PYRAMID

This is a style technique for those who want elongation with their coil definition

Wash day one:
You will set your two strand twists, with a thick cream leave in conditioner or curl cream. It must be a creme product
2nd day:
When you set your hair at night only use a natural oil such as avocado or EVOO.  
3rd day:
Set hair with a lotion leave in or hair milk. It must be a lotion product. When you set your twist out it would be best to flat twist than two strand twist. Reminder:
You will apply a little natural oil everyday as per the Coily Queens Regimen.

4th day:
You apply a non water based product to your hair when you set your twists. You can follow with a natural oil as usual. EACH DAY YOU WILL NOTICE MORE STRETCH TO YOUR TWIST OUTS, YET YOU ARE NOT DRYING YOUR HAIR OUT. USING DIFFERENT TYPES OF CONDITIONERS TO NOURISH AND LUBRICATE KEEPS YOUR HAIR FROM DRYING OUT.
5th day:
If you feel like you are in need of extra moisture then use a liquid leave in conditioner to set your twists at night. If you feel your hair is doing fine with hydration then only apply a little of the non water based conditioner followed by a natural oil.   Repeat day 5 instructions, daily until you wash your hair.

Whether you follow the 4 day pyramid or the 7 day pyramid both of these will give you nice elongation without sacrificing hydration or coil definition. Follow each suggestion as listed for the best results.


For a list of product suggestions go here

These products are great for day 4

The leave in conditioner

 
Afro hair is curly hair and curly hair thrives on moisture. The hair care regimen of those with curly hair must consist of products which feed the hair moisture and products that are properly PH balanced for the hair. There are 3 categories of  hair care: cleansers, conditioners and stylers. Conditioners are the most important of the three. There are different types of conditioners such as: deep conditioners, rinse out quick conditioners, protein treatments and leave in conditioners. The leave in conditioners is the most important product in your hair care regimen. The leave in conditioner is comprised of ingredients which can remain on the hair to provide continuous conditioning to Afro curly hair through out the day. The leave in conditioner was created for your Afro curly hair.

If you are on a budget, the leave in conditioner is the one product you want to splurge on. A good leave in is essential to longer growth retention.  Be sure to invest in a leave in conditioner that is not made up of ,a ton of harsh ingredients. Remember this product remains on your hair until washing, what goes on the hair eventually seeps onto the scalp. Consider this when you shop for your leave in conditioner. 

SEVEN QUALITIES TO LOOK FOR  IN A  LEAVE IN CONDITIONER:
1. PH not over 5.0
2. Water as the first ingredient
3. Contains natural butters, oils,  and extracts
4. Least harsh ingredients
5. Economically priced ($1.50 or less per ounce)
6. The colder the touch of the product the more moisturizing   I find it to be. 
7. Does it leave the hair moisturized for 2 days or more?

THE WRONG PH BALANCED PRODUCT CAN CREATE A MESS!
The PH of the product is very important because if the PH is over 6.0 that product stands a good chance at raising the hair cuticle. When the hair cuticle is raised higher, moisture quickly escapes the hair. This leaves you with dry, hard hair that forms knots when you manipulate it.  You can keep piling on moisturizer but it will feel as though your hair is soaking up the product yet is still not any softer. In reality the product is just sitting on top of your hair shaft causing buildup, this also causes your hair to dry out even more. Day after day you have applied this high PH product to your hair, and after a week you have a huge brittle mess! This is why PH is so important.

ROTATE THREE LEAVE IN CONDITIONERS
The Coily Queens regimen suggest you have at least 3 leave in conditioners you rotate within your regimen. WHY? Well the needs of our hair changes from time to time,  for various reasons. It is very common to have an awesome product you love and then one day it just no longer works the same. If you rotate your products this is less likely to happen. 

A PRODUCT DOES NOT HAVE TO SAY "LEAVE IN CONDITIONER" ON THE BOTTLE, IT ONLY NEEDS TO CONTAIN INGREDIENTS THAT CONDITION AND CAN BE LEFT ON THE HAIR.

A GOOD LEAVE IN CONDITIONER WILL ALSO DOUBLE AS A STYLER. 

LEAVE IN CONDITIONERS I LIKE, THAT PERFORM AS CONDITIONERS AND STYLERS.

SHAMPOO 1st DAY RICH CREAMY LEAVE IN CONDITIONERS>>>>>>>

Shea moisture curl enhancing smoothie

Cantu Shea Butter leave in conditioner

Afro Stretch creme by 4Naturals

Shea moisture restorative conditioner

Elasta QP Olive oil Mango butter curl pudding

Taliah Waajiid curl defining creme

AS I AM DOUBLE BUTTER CREAM (for 1st day conditioning use the As I am leave in under it)  

Read my review on the As I am double butter cream here.
 

These are great 2nd or 3rd day  lotion conditioners>>>>>

As I am leave in conditioner

Shea moisture milk

Karen Body Beautiful sweet ambroisa leave in

Green magic cream by Liquid Gold products

Shea butter blend of peppermint and orange. Stimulate your hair follicles with this yummy blend. Great 3rd day styler to keep hair elongated.

These products are great for 3rd day styling. These products keep the hair soft, defined and lubricated while giving the hair more stretch. You get less shrinkage and more elongation for your twist outs. 

Nikki's Naturals Shea butter peppermint-orange blend
Green Magic cream

As I am double butter cream

SHEA YOGURT HAIR MOISTURIZERS by Alikay naturals. 

ORDER GREAT QUALITY SHEA BUTTER CREME, SHEA BUTTER AND AUTHENTIC BLACK SOAP HERE

Been trying to grow your hair long but you keep getting stuck at the same length? Not gaining your 6 inches of new growth per year? You could benefit from Personalized Hair Growth Coaching. Click here and start today!

As I am double butter cream (review)

Product Review 

4 DIAMONDS PRODUCT RATING

About 3 months ago I purchased the double butter cream by As I am products. I found this product on sale at Target. At the time, this is the first product used from this brand, and I love it!  It comes in a small and large size. I purchased the 8 ounce size for 13.99 which is the sale price. The regular price is 15.99 for 8 ounces. That is more than I would normally like to pay for a product. I like to keep my cost per ounce at $1 or less. But this one is a keeper and a little goes a long way. 

PROS:

Gives you great definition

Long lasting
No need to reapply daily

Strengthens the hair
Stretches your hair

Sets quickly

Moderate Moisture

No build up

do not use it with other gels outside of the As I am gel

When you need to set your twist out quickly this is the product for you.. It is a water based product but it does not take a long time to dry and set your twists. No waiting all night for your twist out to set. This sets in 1 to 3 hours.

CONS:
Not enough moisture for extra dry hair
The cost is $2 per ounce
Try to catch this product on sale
Invest in the larger size it  you only pay around a $1.62 per ounce.

TWIST OUT USING THE DOUBLE BUTTER CREAM

I purchased this because it was on sale and because I had heard so many good things about this line. This was money well spent. I will purchase this product again. 

Other products by As I am, I have tried recently:
As I am leave in conditioner
(this product is light great for thin, fine hair)
As I am co wash
(nice low PH cleanser that will not dry your hair out)