Natural Hair on a budget

Natural hair care does not have to be expensive. If you are willing to spend a little extra time creating your own cleansers, conditioners, leave ins and growth serums. Here are some awesome all natural, inexpensive and effective recipes. 

This shampoo deep cleanses without making the hair feel stripped. Allow shampoo to sit on scalp for at least 1 minute before rinsing. You can buy liquid black soap or solid black soap. Be sure it is authentic.  

Pour 2 ounces of medium temp water into container. Add all of black soap. Vigorously shake mix until black soap melts.Then add ACV, water and rosemary oil. Shake well. 

Find all of the above ingredients at the grocery store. This makes one application. All ingredients easily mix well together

Low cost leave in conditioner

LIQUID LEAVE IN CONDITIONER OR DETANGLER

All of these ingredients are very softening and detangling. Shake before each use. Use as a detangler or leave in conditioner.

Massage onto scalp 3 times a week. Store unused portion in the fridge. 

Add 3 drops of pure peppermint oil to 2 tbsp of coconut oil.Massage onto scalp and leave 
3 times a week for faster growth

Hair myths part 3

Braids can give you a break from incorrect manipulation. 
Thus helping you "retain" more length. 

1. Hair extensions makes your hair grow faster.
False
Hair growth happens under your scalp. No type of weaves or braids can make your hair grow faster. Blood circulation, nutrients and a healthy hair root is what makes your hair grow. This is a commonly shared myth. 


2. You need to straighten or blow out Afro hair in order to trim it properly.
False
Straightening or blow drying your hair before getting braids is a bad move for hair. Heat sucks all moisture from the hair. Then letting the fake hair sit on top of your dry hair for weeks, causes a lot of breakage. This is partly why most comb so much hair out, after they remove extensions. A good braider should be about to braid your Afro hair in its natural state. 

HEAT FREE WAYS TO STRETCH YOUR HAIR.

3. If you have low porosity hair, you cannot use butters or certain products.
False
Porosity does not dictate the types of oils or butters one can use. Most of the oils and butters sit on top of  all hair. Most times the molecular structure of the butter or oil is to big to penetrate any hair strand. To keep build up from happening, be sure to wash your hair once or twice a week. 

Water molecules can get around oils and butters.

Hear from a Chemist. 

4. The Sink Float test will tell you, your hair porosity.
False
There is a commonly shared test within the natural hair community. This test involves putting a strand of hair in a cup of water. Depending on whether your hair sinks or floats, dictates  if you are high or low porosity. This test is not accurate. So do not base your hair regimen around it and wrongly label your hair.

How to create better twist outs

The twist out is probably the most popular style for naturals.  No matter your curl pattern, the hunt for the perfect twist out is always on. Some people get lucky the first time they create their twist out. But for most naturals it takes several attempts in order to get a desired twist out style. To perfect it takes even longer. But it does not have to be all trial and error. Here are some very helpful tips to help your achieve your best twist out. 

12 TIPS FOR BETTER TWIST OUTS

1.  Healthy hair styles the best. Work on the health of your hair first before trying to perfect your twist out. This is very important for new naturals. Trying to create great looking styles on hair that does not retain moisture well, can be very deflating to your natural hair joy. 

Need a good regimen to whip your hair into better shape? 
Start today on the Coily Queens Regimen. 

2. Find a great style product. You want a product to give you hold and moisture, without flaking. Start with a style cream. Here are some winners: As I am double butter cream, SM curl enhancing smoothie, Camille Rose Curlaide, Camille Rose Almond Jai butter, Jane Carter's curling curl cream.

3. For better hold combine a style cream with a gel. Be aware of products conflicting with one another and causing white balls. Mix your two products on the back of your hand, to test and see if they ball up and clump. If it does so, on the back of your hand then that combination is not a good one. Try another combo. Good gels for natural hair especially 4C hair: Kinky curly curling custard, Eco olive oil gel, Miss Jessie's Curly Custard.

4. During cold weather, seal your twist out with coconut oil. It will help your hair hold its shape longer. 


5. Instead of single two strand twists, create small to medium flat twists. You get way more volume per flat twist, than you will with the same size section of a regular two strand twist. Your first night sections should be 2 inches by 3 inch sections, flat twisted. 

6. For a fuller look, end your twists with a bantu knot or use a flexi rod. This gives your twist out more flavor and fullness. 

7. Flat twists also give you more stretch, this gives you more hang time.  

8. Gain more hang time, by not using a water based product after the third day of  your twist out. You will need  moisture for day one and two, but if you have healthy hair your should be able to retwist with a non water based product. Here are some suggestions: As I am double butter cream (has water but it still gives you stretch), Regular shea butter.

9. On day one of your twist out, after you have set your hair, seal your hair with a cold water rinse. This will give you great definition. You can also seal with half aloe vera juice and half filtered water. Put mixture in fridge and let it get really cold. The cold and aloe vera helps to flatten the hair cuticle. The gives you more definition and hold. 

10. For more stretch, reduce your product use in half. Less product equals less shrinkage. 

11. Allow your hair to air dry in large braids at least 75%, then create your two strand twists. This will give you way more hang time. 

12. Afro hair is like memory foam. The more you shape it into a style the better it will form that shape. So do not try a style once or twice then become frustrated. Continue to do that style over and over for a few weeks. Each time your hair will twist better and better. You will also find you can create the style faster. 

Products every natural queen should invest in

Now that you have awaken to the natural beauty of your coily hair, watch where you spend your money. Invest in black owned products to take care of your black owned hair. 

1. Get your shea butter from a black owned business. Almost every naturals uses pure shea butter. When you invest in your shea butter for your company, mixes or personal use, buy from a black owned company. 

Nikkis Naturals has a wide variety of shea butter for retail and wholesale.
http://www.nikkisnaturalshb.com/

2. Purchase children's books on natural hair. Black children need to see their reflection in books. Inspire them!
Doll and book

3.  A leave in conditioner or moisturizer from a black owned hair company
Here are a few black owned natural hair products:
Shea moisture
Terra veda organics
Taliah Waajid
Alikay naturals
Mielle
Luv naturals

The Fabulous Toni Wig! Order here

4. Natural looking hair extensions from a black owned business. For those who wear wigs or extensions instead of purchasing a silky lacefront, purchase extensions that glorify your natural hair from a black owned business. 
Two of the best companies for Natural Wigs: 
Natural wigs!
Fingercomber.com

5.  At least one good head wrap, bonnet, or hat from a black owned company
Natural Sis bonnets, scarfs, and hats
Slaps (satin lines caps)

Keeping your natural hair moisturized

 Once you cleanse, condition and hydrate your hair, you must lock that moisture into your hair. The goal is to keep your hair luxurious and soft for at least 3 days, before you need to apply more product. The best way to keep the moisture from escaping your hair so quickly is to use a sealant product. 

---SEALANT

A oil or butter that is applied on top of your moisturizer. This oil or butter helps the hair hold water for longer periods. A sealant or sealer is the last product you apply to the hair. On top of locking in moisture it should also give your hair a nice sheen. 

In order for the sealant to work, you must already have moisture in your hair. That moisture must come from water. Choose a moisturizer, water based leave in conditioner or plain water, then seal in that moisture with a sealant product. 

THE TOP 5 PRODUCTS FOR SEALING IN MOISTURE

1. Kuza Indian Hemp Scalp Treatment

This is a grease and it softens and seals in moisture extremely well. 
ORDER HERE

2. Shea butter

Be sure to purchase a good quality, unrefined shea butter. 

3. Jojoba oil

This oil is actually a wax. When applied on top of moisturized hair, it does a great job of locking in that moisture.  It also reduces frizz and stimulates better hair growth. Jojoba oil closely matches our natural sebum. 
ORDER JOJOBA OIL 

4. Cupuacu butter

A very light weight butter, that delivers amazing softness to your hair and controls frizz. Will seal in the moisture and leave your hair soft and bouncy. 
ORDER CUPUACU BUTTER 

5. Pomades
A pomade usually consist of a combination of butters, waxes and petroleum. But pomades come in many combinations. They normally come in a solid waxy consistency. 

Some pomades to check out:
Cantu hair dressing pomade
Got2B glued define & shine pomade
Aveda Anti Humectant pomade

ORDER HERE

There are several different ways of sealing in moisture.

Quick easy sealing:
This can be done when you want less shrinkage and more body to your twist outs. After you shampoo and deep condition. You skip the leave in and other style products. You take advantage of the soaking wet hair. In this case the water alone is your leave in. You seal that water into your hair by using either an oil, butter or grease. Style hair as usual. 

This works great as a style refresher between shampoos

• Lightly mist hair with water
• Smooth on shea butter or jojoba oil
• Restyle and cover hair
• Let hair set overnight
• In the morning you should have definition, elongation, shine and softness. 

CHOOSE ONE OF THESE 5 GREAT PRODUCTS FOR SEALING IN MOISTURE, AND YOUR HAIR SHOULD NEVER GO DRY!

Shea moisture curl smoothie compared to the cantu leave in conditioner

The leave in conditioner is the most important product in your hair care regimen. The leave in conditioner is left on the hair all day. The leave in conditioner will also fall on the scalp. Any product that will stay on your hair all day should be a product that contains natural, nourishing ingredients. 

If the current state of your hair is dry,  full of knots and does not style well, then stay away from products with ingredients names you have a hard time pronouncing.   There are many popular products, naturals use, that only give you the illusion of healthy hair. These products contain cheap ingredients which coat the hair and gives you instant softness. However you will find that using these products on a regular basis will dry your hair out long term. 

PRODUCT COMPARISON
Below are the first ten ingredients which make up the popular cantu shea butter leave in conditioner. Compare those ingredients to the first ten ingredients of the also popular shea moisture curl enhancing smoothie. 

CANTU SHEA BUTTER LEAVE IN
Water , Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) , Glycine Soja Oil (Soybean) , Propylene Glycol , Polyquaternium-37 , Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate , Dicaprate , PPG-1 Trideceth-6 , 


SHEA MOISTURE CURL ENHANCING SMOOTHIE
Deionized Water, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)*, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut ) Oil*, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Magnifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter*, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Vegetable Glycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Silk Protein, 

The Shea Moisture smoothie has more natural nourishing ingredients than the cantu product. Notice how the ingredients of the smoothie are easy to pronounce. Look for leave in conditioners that contain, natural oils, extracts and butters. Those ingredients nourish the hair, softens the hair in a healthy way and help to seal in moisture. 

VERDICT
If you are a college student on a budget and you are not dealing with dry hair, the cantu shea butter leave in, would not be a bad investment. However, if your hair is invaded by knots, excess tangles and you have a hard time keeping moisture in your hair, you should  purchase the shea moisture curl enhancing smoothie. 

Shea Moisture smoothie is a more superior product. You can find both of these products at stores such as Walmart, CVS, Target and beauty supply stores. 

How to know if your Shea butter is of good quality

Melts  and spreads easily
When you put it on your hands it melts quickly. Although lots of people love to whip their Shea butter, it is not necessary to whip it in order to use it. If your Shea butter does not melt or spread easily then it is not pure Shea butter. In the states a lot of the Shea butter is mixed with other butters. Pay attention to the label when you are choosing your products. I have seen Shea butter labeled as "African butter" this means you are not getting 100% Shea butter. You are purchasing other cheaper African butters, which may still be good, but very misleading. You deserve to have what you thought you were paying for. 

Shea butter is full of  vitamins A & E, proteins, minerals and fatty acids. Shea butter is an excellent emollient and it helps to keep moisture from leaving your skin and hair. It is breathable, protects the hair and is a great detangler. Shea butter prevent wrinkles, anti inflammatory and protects the skin from UV aggressors. But you only receive these benefits from good quality grade A Shea butter. 

Stay away from the golden yellow Shea butter or pure white Shea butter.
I have purchased Shea butter since the 80's and it was always a cream, off white color, or pale yellow in color. When you come across that bright yellow Shea butter it has been mixed with something to brighten the color. Some makers think that the golden yellow color makes it more appealing to the consumer. Just understand that butter is most likely not pure. If it is white or bright yellow it is mostly refined Shea butter. Refined Shea butter has gone through an intense heat process and will contain solvent residues. It is many times odorless and has other chemicals in it to prolong the shelf life. 

Purchase unrefined, grade A Shea butter
Unrefined means it has not been treated with high heat. Heat destroys many of the plant nutrients. Shea butter is a food first, so it feeds the hair roots awesome nutrients, which help to keep your hair healthy. But when you purchase the refined butter you will not get all those nutrient benefits. You will still have the lubricant benefits of the butter but that is all. 

Shea butter greatly benefits those with Afro curly coily hair. But invest in a good quality butter to reap the benefits. If Shea Butter has not wowed you then most likely you have never used a good quality rich Shea Butter. 

Nikki's naturals a family owned black owned company

Two of my sellers of Shea butter

Nikki's naturals

Shea butter cottage

Order a good quality Shea butter today, retail or wholesale.

Natural hair care on a cheap budget.

A cheap hair care regimen for those on a very limited budget. The unemployed, fixed income, struggling single mom or just those who are cheap. Here is a good hair care and style regimen for you. Some of the items listed here you already have in your cabinet. So to upgrade it should take you no more than $20.

Cleansing your hair:  BLACK SOAP
You can purchase black soap from those who make it from scratch. Depending on your city you can find an African or Jamaican seller who sells it at a very good price. Authentic black soap comes in cream and brown chunks. You can find black soap sold online or at your local health food store. Be sure to read the label not all black soap on the shelf is pure black soap. 

Black soap by itself is a deep cleansing soap not one I would use on a regular basis. However you can add a tablespoon of apple cider vinegar to your liquid black soap to help lower the PH. You can also add pure aloe vera to it and that will lower the PH. 

Purchase black soap here

Black soap shampoo 1

1 cup of filtered water

1 tablespoon of liquid black soap

1/2 tablespoon of ACV

Black soap shampoo 2

1 cup of filtered water

1 tablespoon liquid black soap 

1/4 cup of pure aloe vera gel 

DEEP CONDITIONING: Extra Virgin Olive oil + pure honey +glycerin + filtered water

2 tablespoon of pure honey

1/2 cup filtered water

2 tablespoons of glycerin

1 tablespoon of EVOO

Get raw honey here!

Best EVOO here! 

 
LEAVE IN CONDITIONER:  Shea butter + glycerin

APPLY TO HAIR WHILE SOAKING WET

1. Add one tablespoon of glycerin to your desired amount of pure unrefined shea butter

Pure shea butter

2. You can use the shea butter just by itself.

3. You can also just use a single oil for your leave in conditioner. 

You should be able to create your styles with just your leave in conditioner. If you need a harder hold a gel is recommended.

CHEAP PRODUCTS FOR STYLING

Styler 1
You can do your twist outs with simply water and grease. Yes water and grease. Try it. You will have great definition.

Styler 2:  Flaxseed gel
Purchase flaxseeds from the grocery store. Be sure they are organic. Search youtube for videos on how to easily make your own flaxseed gel. 

Styler 3:  Aloe vera gel
It is best to buy pure aloe vera leaf from your local international or Mexican grocery store. You will find it on the produce isle. One stem will last you 2 to 3 months. You can freeze what you are not currently using. One large stem is around $3 or $4. 

When you buy or order aloe vera gel be sure it is pure aloe gel. No alcohol. 

NEED HELP? ORDER ALOE VERA HERE


CONDITIONING CAPS
For your deep conditioning collect extra produce bags when you grocery shop. The produce bags are made to hold naked fruits and vegetables. The produce bags are better than grocery bags. Grocery bags are not made for holding naked food. 

As you can see hair care does not have to cost a lot. So no more complaining about the cost of natural hair. Natural hair can be as expensive or as cheap as you make it.