Knowing your hair growth rate

It is beneficial to know your hair growth rate. The hair growth rate is how much your hair grows each month.  On average, hair grows 1/2 inch per month. Some people grow more, while some grow less.  Not knowing your normal hair growth rate, makes it harder to know when your growth slows or if a growth product or technique is working for you. 

CALCULATING YOUR HAIR GROWTH RATE

Measure you hair in 3 different areas, every month, for 7 months. Take the average from those 7 months of growth. That will give you a good ideal as to how much your hair grows each month. 

Make note of anything major you do to your hair during this time. Things such as: trims, hair color, extensions, major breakage, health issues, etc.   Depression, menstral cycles, anemia, thyroid issues, pregnancy can also greatly affect your hair growth. 

Since you are tracking hair growth it would be best to not trim you hair during the 7 months. Trim your hair before you begin, if you need a trim. 

It is unnecessary to heat straighten your hair, for simply checking the length. You can do a length check on your hair in its natural curly state. You can also stretch your hair by two strand twisting it, letting it air dry in a ponytail or air dry in magnetic rollers. 

Measure front length

Measure your length on one side.  Make a clear note as to the side you choose. Left side or the right side. Take pictures of your measurements if that works better for you.

Measure the bottom back area. Choose left or right side. Record all your starting measurements. Repeat these measurements every 30 days, for 7 months. Record how much growth you gain in each area.

Do this for 7 months and that will tell you how much your hair grows on average per month. Your HGR which stands for hair growth rate.  

Cleansing your hair with black soap

If commercial shampoos are giving your hair a hard time, you can easily make your own natural shampoo. Pure Black soap makes a great natural shampoo base. Black soap is made from a combination of coco pod ashes, plantain skin ashes, palm oil, tea tree oil or shea butter. Makers use a different combinations of those ingredients. 

Purchase original black soap HERE

It is soft, melts faster than traditional soap and is brownish in color.    

Black soap is great for deep cleansing of your hair and body. Great at removing product buildup and dandruff. Although it is all natural, it is not a mild cleanser. I would recommend using it nor more than once per week in the place of your commercial shampoos.  

PLUS: COCONUT MILK
ORGANIC APPLE CIDER VINEGAR

For these recipes I used liquid blacks soap, for convenience. You can purchase original black soap and shave off pieces and make your own liquid black soap, if you prefer. 

THREE NATURAL BLACK SOAP SHAMPOOS

Each maker creates their black soap in a different way. Just because it says "black soap" does not mean it is pure. Read your labels. 

Great deal on whole black soap or liquid black soap>>> HERE

The right conditioning product for your hair lifestyle

COILY WET SET aka THE WASH AND GO

Your hair lifestyle is that you rock coily wet sets most of the time.  You love your wash and go but you consistently have an issue with product buildup or white balls ruining your wet set. Always apply a leave in conditioner under your gel or hold product, when doing coily wet sets.  Gels can easily dry the hair out and break it. You want the gel to lay on top of the conditioner to protect your hair from breakage.

To avoid product clumps and white particles, choose a liquid leave in conditioner or a lotion type of leave in. Stay away from creamy leave in conditioners, with your coily wet set. The heavier the products the more likely you are to experience white balls forming and ruining your style. In general creams are much heavier than lotions. 

Lotion leave in conditioners :

Karen's Body Beautiful sweet ambrosia leave in

Avo365 leave in conditioner curly

Mielle avocado moisturizing milk

Liquid leave in conditioners:

Jane Carter revitalizing leave in conditioner

Aphogee pro vitamin leave in conditioner

Alikay Naturals lemongrass leave in

TWIST OUTS, BRAID OUTS

For twist out, braid outs and puffs creamy leave ins are the way to go.  To many naturals overdo it with product application. This leads to white particles and buildup on the hair. Use only a little product per section and spend more time smoothing the product evenly through your hair. A little product truly goes a long way. 

Remember the less product you use the less shrinkage you will have. Try to achieve your twist out or braid out with only a creamy leave in conditioner and oil. A good leave in conditioner will function as both a moisture and hold product. 

Products which condition and set the hair:

Shea Moisture curl enhancing smoothie

Qhemet Biologics amla heavy cream

Jane Carter curl cream

HEAT STRAIGHTENING 

When you press or flat iron your hair, you want as much body as you can achieve. No one wants weighed down straight hair. The less heavy products you use the least likely you will have weighed down hair. You want your hair protected and moisturized without being weighed down. To have more body, use a liquid leave in conditioner under your heat protectant. 

Liquid leave in conditioner recommendations

Aphogee pro vitamin leave in

Infusion 23 pro vitamin leave in hair treatment

New natural product buzz!

A shampoo, conditioner and a styler!

Curly Queens are giving these products 5 stars! If you are bored or unsatisfied with your present, shampoo, styler or conditioner, these are certainly products you must try. 

MIELLE Mint Deep Condtioner

Give you a blast of moisture and an infusion of protein. Hydration and strength in one jar.

Camille Rose almond jai butter

Naturals are raving about the wonderful definition this gives their twist outs. Smooth twists with lots of shine. 

Design essentials avocado shampoo

Looking for a shampoo to not only cleanse your hair well, but help you detangle with ease. Like butta! Testimony is this one delivers exactly what it promises. 

These products can be found at stores like Target, CVS or the beauty supply store. 

Products every natural queen should invest in

Now that you have awaken to the natural beauty of your coily hair, watch where you spend your money. Invest in black owned products to take care of your black owned hair. 

1. Get your shea butter from a black owned business. Almost every naturals uses pure shea butter. When you invest in your shea butter for your company, mixes or personal use, buy from a black owned company. 

Nikkis Naturals has a wide variety of shea butter for retail and wholesale.
http://www.nikkisnaturalshb.com/

2. Purchase children's books on natural hair. Black children need to see their reflection in books. Inspire them!
Doll and book

3.  A leave in conditioner or moisturizer from a black owned hair company
Here are a few black owned natural hair products:
Shea moisture
Terra veda organics
Taliah Waajid
Alikay naturals
Mielle
Luv naturals

The Fabulous Toni Wig! Order here

4. Natural looking hair extensions from a black owned business. For those who wear wigs or extensions instead of purchasing a silky lacefront, purchase extensions that glorify your natural hair from a black owned business. 
Two of the best companies for Natural Wigs: 
Natural wigs!
Fingercomber.com

5.  At least one good head wrap, bonnet, or hat from a black owned company
Natural Sis bonnets, scarfs, and hats
Slaps (satin lines caps)

The top 5 best products for your hair!

1. Best leave in conditioner

Great for all hair types, long lasting,  easily available at most stores. 

2. Best cleanser

CQ CLAY WASH (DIY)
Apply to hair
Cover with a plastic cap
1 to 3 hours
Rinse

  

3. Best sealant

4. Best deep conditioner

5. Best growth oil

Liquid Gold sulfur oil available online only, see link in right hand column to order.

Detangling Afro coily hair

Tangles are the number one complaint of those with Afro coily hair. When you first go natural it is not uncommon to spend a whole hour untangling your hair. Having to spend so long on detangling, makes black women, not want to wash or restyle their hair often. However keeping the hair washed on a regular basis is the key to growing your hair to great lengths and creating great styles. This is the reason you want to greatly reduce your detangling time. The healthier your hair is, the easier it is to untangle. It is possible to untangle your hair in less than 15 minutes, even with tight coils and long length. 

Following the CoilyQueens Regimen enables me to untangle my hair in 15 minutes. My shampoo time has been reduced by 70%

1. Never untangle hair when soaking wet
Always untangle hair while damp not while soaking wet.  Although soaking wet hair is soft and very flexible it is weak due to being filled with water. Dampen your hair with conditioner or a light mist of water. Let it sit on hair for 3 minutes, then gently untangle with your fingers. 

2. If you want to retain long lengths untangle hair with your fingers. No combs!
If you keep your hair lubricated with a natural oil daily you will find finger combing really easy to do. The most important thing to know when finger combing is to take small sections. Do not treat it the same nor expect the same results compared to using a comb. In the beginning it will take you twice as long to finger comb compared to using a comb or brush. Soften hair with a conditioner, then untangle in small sections and you will be successful with finger combing. The more you do it the faster it will go!


3. Never detangle with a brush, tangle teaser or any product like it. 
If you watch youtube you will see many naturals show demos  of untangling their hair using the very popular denman brush. Do not adopt this trend! Brushing the hair, weakens the hair cuticle over time. This makes the hair high porosity and susceptible to damage. The problem is that the damage does not happen quickly. It takes awhile for you to see the damage. Even so, know that each time you rake that brush through your hair you are weakening some of your protein bonds. When you rake it through soaking wet hair it is even worst. If you want to retain length, keep the brush out of your regimen. Fingers only!

4. Removing heavy tangles, matted hair and knots!
If you do not consistently follow a healthy hair regimen you can easily find your hair in a situation in which it will knot up and mat badly. You will get massive tangles which overwhelm you. Do not panic and start cutting or ripping out your hair. Remember people have untangled a full head of dread locs, so mostly likely your tangles can be removed with no damage.

Cold pressed castor oil

Solution #1: Mix 1 tablespoon of organic apple cider vinegar, with 1 cup of filtered water, plus 2 tablespoons of grape seed oil. Put mix in a spray bottle and shake well. Spray hair down really good, using 3/4 cups of the mixture. Cover with a plastic cap for one hour. Go calm down, get some tea and take some deep breathes. After one hour untanlge hair using very small sections and take your time. Use the remaining 1/4 cup of your mixture to keep hair damp as you untangle it.  

Solution #2: Mix 2 tablespoons of castor oil + 1 tablespoon of coconut oil + 1/4 cup or more of a thick conditioner of your choice. Cover with a -plastic conditioning cap + scarf overnight. If you do not have time for an overnight treatment. do it for 3 hours. If you do the treatment overnight your tangles will melt in the morning.

Untangle hair before you start the shampoo process always.

3 Reasons why crochet braids are not a good protective style

The crochet braids of the 90's have made a big comeback.  You see naturals posting their proud  crochet braids pictures on just about every hair forum, group or hair site. You see more people showing them off than their natural hair. You see hashtags such as #protectivestyling, next to their fresh set of crochet braids.  But is your hair truly protected?  Just because you cover your hair with fake hair does not make it protected. 

Your protection comes from hair care, not  fake hair. 

I can help you grow your own hair! Start here

#1. Not keeping your scalp clean, stunts hair growth
The average person wearing crochet braids does not wash their hair on a weekly basis. This is unhealthy for the scalp and drying to the hair. Because the hair used is synthetic hair, wearers are more concerned with keeping the hair looking good than keeping the scalp clean.

Never sacrifice the health of your hair just to keep a style longer.

#2. The synthetic hair is drying to your natural hair

The hair which most people use to create crochet braids is made of a form of plastic. This fake fiber lays on top of the hair and dries out your natural hair. The fake hair that comes in colors is even worst. The dye chemicals lay on top of the hair and seep onto the scalp. In some cases the scalp can have an allergic reaction to the hair. 

Remember what lays on top of your hair also seeps into your scalp.

#3. The common braid pattern causes traction alopecia
The popular braid pattern of braiding the hair straight back is damaging to the edges. This braid pattern will make your hairline recede. The weight of the fake hair hanging on the cornrow base of your natural hair sometimes leads to breakage. Especially when people leave crochets in for 3 months or more. 

Use a different braid pattern if you wear crochet braids more than once. Cornrowing the hair down, from the top to the ear, is a better braid pattern than cornrowing straight back. 

These dangers also apply to sew ins and braid extensions. Before you get your next set of braids or weaves, protect your hair by following the Braid Retain and Grow Method. 

Grow your hair longer and healthier by working with a Hair Growth Coach. Start today!

Jamaican Black Castor Oil versus cold pressed castor oil

If you have  frequented hair forums or groups, for more than one week, then you have seen posts about Jamaican Black Castor oil aka JBCO. You have probably read many testimonies in which someone says it helped them grow their hair longer.  Many women have written testimonies about Jamaican Black Castor Oil growing their edges back. JBCO is widely used as a hair growth agent and hair softener. 

Castor bean plant

But what exactly is JBCO and how does it differ from regular castor oil? 
You will find several makers of JBCO. Jamacian Black castor oil is made from the castor bean plant. The way in which it is extracted from the castor bean is by using high amounts of heat. The oil is kept at high heat for so long that it develops ash. This ash makes the oil appear a little darker in color. The makers of this refined oil claim that the ash content, which develops in the oil, is what causes the hair to grow. These are the claims of Tropical Traditions makers of a JBCO product.

Order here!!!

Cold pressed castor oil is extracted from the castor bean plant using a pressing method. High heat is not used during the cold pressed procedure, therefore the castor retains it amazing benefits. We know that the longer you cook food on high heat the more of the nutritional properties you destroy. Natural oils fall under the same law. So when choosing any type of natural oil you always want to look for a unrefined cold pressed oil. This is the best choice for your money. 


Both JBCO and castor oil are made from the same castor bean plant. The big difference in the two oils is how it is extracted from the castor bean plant. Cold pressed is a better buy. JBCO is overpriced refined castor oil.

Castor oil softens and conditions hair

Which is better for the hair?
Cold pressed castor has more benefits for the hair and body than the over processed JBCO. You also get more product for your money by purchasing  cold pressed castor oil. On average JBCO cost  around  $7.99 for 4 ounces. This is overpriced for castor oil. You are paying to much money for burnt oil.

Benefits of cold pressed castor oil
Anti bacterial and anti fungal
softens hair dramatically
Reduces frizzy hair 
Full of fatty acids which nourish the scalp and prevents it from drying out.
Increase hair growth
Humectant
Stimulates the scalp
Hair regeneration (with consistent use for 2 months or more)
Strong pain reliever
Anti inflammatory, soothes inflamed skin.

 
The castor oil I use and recommend is by Home Health, I purchased a large 32 ounce for 12.99.  Much better value and quality castor oil. ORDER HERE!

How to repair heat damaged hair!

Help I straightened my hair a week ago and now some parts of my hair are not as curly as the rest of my hair. Do I have heat damage? If so can I repair it? I am afraid, I will have to cut my hair, help!!!

What is heat damage?

When hair has been melted by a heat source and it reaches the cortex. The cortex is the deep inner part of each hair strand. Each hair strand is made up of many layers. The outer layer is the hair cuticle and it provides protection to all the other layers. When you use a flat iron over 250 degrees the hair becomes smooth by melting the hair cuticle. This is usually temporary. Heat damage normally occurs when you use excessive heat, high heat or you apply heat to already damaged hair.

 

Do you really have heat damage?

Every time you use harsh heat you weaken your hair cuticle. Whether you have damaged it to the point that it will not revert back to its original shape, will have to be seen once you shampoo and condition your hair.

How to get your curls back.

Cleanse your hair with a conditioning cleanser or non sulfate shampoo. Deep condition your hair with a moisturizing conditioner, add honey for more conditioning. Sit under the dryer for 20 minutes. Rinse with cool water, follow with a ACV rinse.

What to do when the hair does not revert back.

Once you have shampooed, deep conditioned, ACV rinse and styled, your coils should return. If that does not happen, no need to panic. Each night for 3 nights in a row apply a leave in conditioner, cover with a plastic cap, until the next day. Use your fingers to scrunch and shape the troubled areas. At this point you do not know how deep the heat went. Just because your curls are not fully back does not mean you have heat damage. For the next four weeks you will do the cleanse, DC and ACV regimen twice a week. So if you start on a Monday you will then repeat the process on Friday. After week one, you will baggy every other night. So this equals 6 treatment sessions within a months time.  Each week you complete the routine you should see more curls appear. By week 4 your curls should be back.

How to straighten your hair without getting heat damage.

When you decide to use harsh heat such as flat irons and pressing combs, you must make sure your hair is strong and very moisturized. If you are having dry hair issues do not straighten your hair. Always schedule your straightening sessions 4 weeks in advance. Weeks 1-3 you should deep condition your hair really well. Week 4 do a good protein treatment a few days before you straighten your hair. The protein will help to protect your hair from the harsh heat you are going to put on it. The day of your straightening routine, be sure to use a silicone based heat protectant. Make sure your hair is moisturized but not wet when you straighten it.

If a 4 week treatment does not fit your schedule check here for the 9 day heat preparation treatment.

When you should never straighten your hair

To do a length check

It is a waste of time to straighten hair only for the purpose of checking the length. Why risk the damage?

When your hair is damaged

Never straighten damaged hair. As stated above each time you use harsh heat you make the hair weaker. 

When you have hair color

Hair dyes make your hair dry and difficult to keep moisturized. Never straighten hair that is having issues retaining moisture.

When your hair is extra dry

Straightening dry brittle hair is the main cause of heat damage.  

In the Summer time

What is the point it will not last anyway. You will then use more heat to try to get your press to last longer. This is a recipe for heat damage.

When your hair is dirty

Always start with freshly washed hair no older than 2 days. 

When you are crunched for time

When you use harsh heat you need to take small sections and take your time. The process can take hours, rushing it will cause you to make mistakes which can leave you with heat damage. 

When you are getting it braided 

Hair does not need to be blown out nor flat ironed, when you are getting extensions. If your braider cannot work with your natural hair, find another braider. Your hair needs moisture when you are getting extensions. Straightening the hair removes the moisture, so this is a bad thing to do before getting braids.

 

REMEMBER PREVENTION IS ALWAYS BETTER THAN CURE!

 

BE PROACTIVE WITH YOUR LIFE NOT REACTIVE ALL THE TIME!

How to correct rough puffy hair ends and knots

Does your hair form knots no matter what product your try?

Do you spend time untangling your hair, only for tangles to reform within minutes upon finishing?

Do your ends always feel rough?

Are your ends puffy when you braid or twist your hair?

Are you plagued by bothersome single strand knots?

If you answered yes to any of these questions this article will help you solve your problem.

Common complaint:
My hair forms knots if I just look at it. I wash my hair, deep condition it and keep it twisted, but still my hair forms knots when I remove the twists. Even when I press my hair using various methods my ends stay puffy and hard. What is wrong with my hair?

Should I get a trim?
Not so fast, trimming your hair may not solve your problem. Before you proceed to cut off unnecessary length, do a test patch.  Take a 1/2 of an inch section of your hair and cut it below the frizz line. Cut from the section right by your earlobe on the corners, at the top of the sideburns area.  Examine whether the hair still forms knots or puffiness after you have cut below the frizz line. If after your test cut your hair still knots up then you know you suffer from a hair cuticle issue that will not be solved by a trim.

What is a hair cuticle issue?
Your hair cuticle is the outer layer of your hair, which is  made of scales and several layers. The hair cuticle raises and flattens depending upon the weather, products and health of the hair. A healthy hair cuticle opens when it should and flattens when it should. When the hair cuticle becomes unhealthy it stays open, this is called a raised hair cuticle or highly porous. You do not want your hair cuticle to stay raised because it loses moisture quickly. A raise hair cuticle is also frizzy, tangled and full of knots.


Repairing the hair cuticle:
If the damage is not deep into the hair cuticle layers, it can be corrected. Using the right PH balanced solution will help the hair cuticle to lay flat and hold moisture. The better hydrated your hair is the less tangles and single strand knots you will have. Applying a simple apple cider organic vinegar rinse  over your hair,  after you rinse out your deep conditioner, will correct a raised cuticle issue. 

Correcting your raised hair cuticle problem

Step one: Do a trim patch test as listed above. If your hair still forms knots then proceed to step two. If the cut patch test shows your hair no longer knotting then proceed with giving your entire head a good trim or visit your stylist for a trim. 

Step two: Wash your hair with one of the following:  a non sulfate shampoo, conditioning cleanser or mud wash. Deep condition your hair using heat by sitting under the dryer. Rinse the deep conditioner out with cold water. Leave on for 3 minutes, then rinse out with cool water. While hair is still soaking wet, apply your leave in conditioner and style. 

You should see a good reduction in knots and puffy ends. If you somehow do not then wait at least 3 days. But this time you can try the ACV treat. After you rinse out your deep conditioner, while hair is still soaking wet pour the ACV treat mix over your hair, saturating all of your hair and scalp. While hair still has the ACV treat in it, apply your leave in conditioner. Blot with a towel and proceed with your styling. 

When doing the ACV treat, if you are using a creamy leave in conditioner that masque the scent of the apple cider vinegar. You will also notice that it takes your hair a really long time to dry when doing the ACV treat. Keep that in mind when styling. You should only have to do the ACV treat once. Then you can continue to do the ACV rinse once a week or once a month. 

The apple cider vinegar rinse/treat

Purchase organic only

1/4 cup of organic apple cider vinegar

2 cups of filtered or bottle water

Benefits:

Reduces tangles

Makes the hair cuticle lay flat

Gives the hair shine.

Anti bacterial 

Anti fungal 

AVOCADO OIL is the best for frizzy ends. Smooth over strands after you apply your leave in  conditioner and styler. Purchase pure, virgin, unrefined avocado oil. This is the best and what I use. 

The apple cider vinegar will make the hair cuticle lay flat therefore keeping your hair from forming knots. You should notice an immediate significant reduction in tangles and knots. In most cases the ACV rinse eliminates all knots. You can repeat the ACV rinse again in 3 days. For even better results complete the 18 day hydration & lubrication regimen for excessive tangles.

If the ACV rinse does not correct your puffy ends or knots issue, then proceed with the 18 day hydration & lubrication regimen. If your hair is still forming knots and puffy ends, then you could have some deep hair cuticle damage. You can learn to work with it or do a big chop and start over.