Hair myths part 3

Braids can give you a break from incorrect manipulation. 
Thus helping you "retain" more length. 

1. Hair extensions makes your hair grow faster.
False
Hair growth happens under your scalp. No type of weaves or braids can make your hair grow faster. Blood circulation, nutrients and a healthy hair root is what makes your hair grow. This is a commonly shared myth. 


2. You need to straighten or blow out Afro hair in order to trim it properly.
False
Straightening or blow drying your hair before getting braids is a bad move for hair. Heat sucks all moisture from the hair. Then letting the fake hair sit on top of your dry hair for weeks, causes a lot of breakage. This is partly why most comb so much hair out, after they remove extensions. A good braider should be about to braid your Afro hair in its natural state. 

HEAT FREE WAYS TO STRETCH YOUR HAIR.

3. If you have low porosity hair, you cannot use butters or certain products.
False
Porosity does not dictate the types of oils or butters one can use. Most of the oils and butters sit on top of  all hair. Most times the molecular structure of the butter or oil is to big to penetrate any hair strand. To keep build up from happening, be sure to wash your hair once or twice a week. 

Water molecules can get around oils and butters.

Hear from a Chemist. 

4. The Sink Float test will tell you, your hair porosity.
False
There is a commonly shared test within the natural hair community. This test involves putting a strand of hair in a cup of water. Depending on whether your hair sinks or floats, dictates  if you are high or low porosity. This test is not accurate. So do not base your hair regimen around it and wrongly label your hair.

A few things a new natural should know

1. It is natural to have more than one curl type or texture on your head.
If you have 2 or 3 curl types on your head that is normal and not unique. It is common for the curl type to be loser above the nape area. It is also common for the curl to be tighter in the crown. It could also be the opposite for you. 

2. Shrinkage is natural. How much your hair shrinks is most likely not different from the next natural.
Shrinkage is a sign of healthy hair. Shrinkage is actually your curls filled with water. Shrinkage should not be viewed as a bad thing. It is just what happened to curly hair. Most do not like shrinkage because it takes their length. That is just the nature of curly hair. 

3. Two factors to growing longer hair.
UNDER THE SCALP IS HAIR GROWTH 
How much your hair sprouts from under the scalp each month. The average rate of hair growth per month is 1/2 inch. You might get more or less than the average. How much your hair grows each month is based partly on genetics, hair regimen and your health. 

HAIR ABOVE THE SCALP IS GROWTH RETENTION  
How much of that growth you keep on your head. How much growth you keep is called, length retention. You can greatly affect your length retention depending on how you handle your hair. Most people who feel their hair does not grow, are really having a problem with length retention, not the hair growth. Their hair regimen is not conducive to them retaining length. 


4. Know your normal hair growth rate
It would benefit you to know how much your hair normally grows each month.  Then your will notice the change, if  your hair begins to grow slower. Simply track your hair growth every 30 days, for 7 months. At the end of those 7 months calculate the average from each monthly rate. 

YES YOU CAN INCREASE YOUR NORMAL HAIR GROWTH RATE

5. Get use to finger combing 
The fastest way to retain length is to finger comb. When you do not comb or brush your hair you will retain more length and reach your length goals faster. Combs and brushes pop and break curly hair.  The top cause of breakage is raking a comb or brush through your curls. 

6. Just like food natural is always better
Buying products with the most natural ingredients is important. What you apply to the hair goes into the scalp. You want the ingredients to be healthy as they lay on your scalp and seep into your hair follicles. It is worth spending a few dollars extra for a better quality product. Than it is to use products with cheap ingredients. Those cheap ingredients work at first, but they lead to dry hair and breakage down the road. Avoid a setback, invest in healthy products. 

Stay away from

Aussie Moist

Garnier Frutus

Pantene

Hello Hydration

and most other brands with cheap harsh ingredients.

7. The deal with porosity     
You will see a lot said about hair porosity. Someone will recommend the water sink, float test. The popular sink float test for porosity is not accurate.  Do not get  tied up in trying to figure out your porosity. Most have it wrong. You can use any product you like that you are not allergic to. All hair absorbs water, some might take a few seconds  more to absorb it but they still absorb it nonetheless.  Those who claim to be low porosity still have shrinkage. Think about that. It is okay to know your current porosity, but that does not dictate which products you can or cannot use. Porosity is important for your stylist to figure out when giving your any type of chemical service. 

How to tell if your hair is hydrated

Your hair can be moisturized with product but still not have healthy hydration. Finding the right product to give your hair moisture is only half of the hydration battle. The goal to healthy hair is getting your hair to receive and hold moisture for long periods. 

3 things determine how well your hair holds moisture:

• How often you cleanse and condition your hair
• How healthy your hair cuticle is (porosity)
• The quality of products you use

How do I know if my hair is hydrated?

• Your hair stays soft, stretches without breaking.
• Hair holds moisture for 3 days. 
• Absence of single strand knots.
• You can separate your hair with no webbing.
• Your hair styles better.
• You have better coil definition.
• You have lots of shrinkage. 

How to get hydrated hair?

• Eliminate all products with harsh ingredients.
• Replace them with products as close to natural as possible.
• Follow a good  regimen, such as the CoilyQueens Regimen.
• A good regimen must include frequent cleansing and conditioning. 
• Do not use harsh heat. (flat irons, pressings etc.)
• Stay away from covering your hair in fake hair for at least 1 year after beginning a regimen.
• Be consistent, expect gradual improvements each week.
• Be patient it can take 6 months or more for healthy hydration. 

Make the above statements apply to your hair and regimen. 

Do not use products that contain these alcohols.

Denatured

SD alcohol 40

Witch hazel

Isopropanol

Ethanol

SD

Propanol

Propyl

HOW DO I BEGIN MY HYDRATION JOURNEY? 
Now you have an understanding of how hydrated hair performs. Start with the dry hair checklist. Make corrections according to the do's and don'ts listed.  Eliminate all products with not so natural ingredients in them.  Having a healthy head of hair can take 6 months to a year of being consistent. It all depends on the condition of your hair, when you begin. You will see the best results starting with natural hair at the TWA stage. Your hair is new and easier to hydrate. So when you are expecting results remember where you started. If you have damaged ends go ahead and cut them now. Do not waste anymore time holding onto those ugly ends just to maintain a certain length. You will be glad you did and it will grow back faster. 

Start the CoilyQueens Regimen today!

How to correct rough puffy hair ends and knots

Does your hair form knots no matter what product your try?

Do you spend time untangling your hair, only for tangles to reform within minutes upon finishing?

Do your ends always feel rough?

Are your ends puffy when you braid or twist your hair?

Are you plagued by bothersome single strand knots?

If you answered yes to any of these questions this article will help you solve your problem.

Common complaint:
My hair forms knots if I just look at it. I wash my hair, deep condition it and keep it twisted, but still my hair forms knots when I remove the twists. Even when I press my hair using various methods my ends stay puffy and hard. What is wrong with my hair?

Should I get a trim?
Not so fast, trimming your hair may not solve your problem. Before you proceed to cut off unnecessary length, do a test patch.  Take a 1/2 of an inch section of your hair and cut it below the frizz line. Cut from the section right by your earlobe on the corners, at the top of the sideburns area.  Examine whether the hair still forms knots or puffiness after you have cut below the frizz line. If after your test cut your hair still knots up then you know you suffer from a hair cuticle issue that will not be solved by a trim.

What is a hair cuticle issue?
Your hair cuticle is the outer layer of your hair, which is  made of scales and several layers. The hair cuticle raises and flattens depending upon the weather, products and health of the hair. A healthy hair cuticle opens when it should and flattens when it should. When the hair cuticle becomes unhealthy it stays open, this is called a raised hair cuticle or highly porous. You do not want your hair cuticle to stay raised because it loses moisture quickly. A raise hair cuticle is also frizzy, tangled and full of knots.


Repairing the hair cuticle:
If the damage is not deep into the hair cuticle layers, it can be corrected. Using the right PH balanced solution will help the hair cuticle to lay flat and hold moisture. The better hydrated your hair is the less tangles and single strand knots you will have. Applying a simple apple cider organic vinegar rinse  over your hair,  after you rinse out your deep conditioner, will correct a raised cuticle issue. 

Correcting your raised hair cuticle problem

Step one: Do a trim patch test as listed above. If your hair still forms knots then proceed to step two. If the cut patch test shows your hair no longer knotting then proceed with giving your entire head a good trim or visit your stylist for a trim. 

Step two: Wash your hair with one of the following:  a non sulfate shampoo, conditioning cleanser or mud wash. Deep condition your hair using heat by sitting under the dryer. Rinse the deep conditioner out with cold water. Leave on for 3 minutes, then rinse out with cool water. While hair is still soaking wet, apply your leave in conditioner and style. 

You should see a good reduction in knots and puffy ends. If you somehow do not then wait at least 3 days. But this time you can try the ACV treat. After you rinse out your deep conditioner, while hair is still soaking wet pour the ACV treat mix over your hair, saturating all of your hair and scalp. While hair still has the ACV treat in it, apply your leave in conditioner. Blot with a towel and proceed with your styling. 

When doing the ACV treat, if you are using a creamy leave in conditioner that masque the scent of the apple cider vinegar. You will also notice that it takes your hair a really long time to dry when doing the ACV treat. Keep that in mind when styling. You should only have to do the ACV treat once. Then you can continue to do the ACV rinse once a week or once a month. 

The apple cider vinegar rinse/treat

Purchase organic only

1/4 cup of organic apple cider vinegar

2 cups of filtered or bottle water

Benefits:

Reduces tangles

Makes the hair cuticle lay flat

Gives the hair shine.

Anti bacterial 

Anti fungal 

AVOCADO OIL is the best for frizzy ends. Smooth over strands after you apply your leave in  conditioner and styler. Purchase pure, virgin, unrefined avocado oil. This is the best and what I use. 

The apple cider vinegar will make the hair cuticle lay flat therefore keeping your hair from forming knots. You should notice an immediate significant reduction in tangles and knots. In most cases the ACV rinse eliminates all knots. You can repeat the ACV rinse again in 3 days. For even better results complete the 18 day hydration & lubrication regimen for excessive tangles.

If the ACV rinse does not correct your puffy ends or knots issue, then proceed with the 18 day hydration & lubrication regimen. If your hair is still forming knots and puffy ends, then you could have some deep hair cuticle damage. You can learn to work with it or do a big chop and start over.
 

Understanding your hairs porosity

All hair is porous, meaning that products, in particular water, can penetrate its surface. Some peoples hair is more porous than others, and hair on the same head can be overly porous one day the next month less porous. Products, hair care habits and elements greatly effect our hairs porosity. If you are on a journey towards growing longer healthier hair your first step should be to get your hairs cuticle to open and close properly. The goal is to have normal porosity, this is when your hair cuticle closes when it should and opens when it should.

Understand that overly porous or under porous is not a hair type, it is a hair condition. Unlike hair types, conditions are subject to change. Most people have overly porous hair due to their improper shampoo habits or using products which are not PH balanced for the hair. Most women think this is just the way their hair is, and adopts being overly porous or under porous as a hair type, when it is a hair condition. Again the goal is to have a healthy working cuticle that closes when it should and opens when it should. This goal is easily attainable, by following a specific regimen for 30 days. Remember this is the first thing you need to do when starting a healthy hair regimen.

30 day correction for overly porous hair:
Products needed: PH balance strips, non sulfate PH balanced shampoo, organic apple cider vinegar, a deep moisturizing conditioner, plastic caps, hooded dryer, bottled or filtered water and a leave in conditioner.
Steps to take:
Shampoo your hair twice a week with a non sulfate shampoo. Be sure the shampoo has a PH b/n 5.5 and 6.0. (purchase PH balance strips to test all of your products this is the only way to know for sure)

1. After you shampoo and deep conditioned your hair. Always rinse your shampoo out with warm water, this ensures the cuticle is opened to receive the moisturizing benefits of your deep conditioner.  Once you rinse out your deep conditioner you then need to do a ACV rinse.
Apple Cider Vinegar rinse recipe:
1/4 cup of ACV
2 cups of filtered or bottled water

2. Pour this ACV rinse over all your hair/scalp saturate really good. You should use at least 1/2 of your mixture or all. Allow to soak into your hair for 3 minutes then rinse for 3 minutes with the coldest water you can stand.

3. Apply your leave in conditioner and style. Do not use a blow dryer or any type of heat during the 30 days. Let your hair air dry.

1, 2, 3 that is it! 

Shampoo your hair again in 3 days after your first shampoo/ACV rinse
But this time do not use the ACV rinse, but remember to ALWAYS RINSE YOUR DEEP CONDITIONER OUT WITH COLD WATER.

Shampoo again after another 3 days this time you can use the ACV rinse. 
Following the above instructions.

 You will do a  ACV rinse every 6 days.

After two weeks of this regimen you will notice that your hair retains moisture better and you will not have to apply  a leave in conditioner everyday, so you will start to save a lot of money.

Your steps in 30 days: Easy, inexpensive and simple to follow!
Day 1: Shampoo, DC follow with ACV rinse
Day 4: Shampoo, DC rinse out DC with cold, cold water. Skip ACV rinse part
Day 7: Shampoo, DC, follow with ACV rinse
Day 10: Shampoo, DC rinse out with cold, cold water, Skip ACV rinse part
Day 13: Shampoo, DC follow with ACV rinse
Day 16: Shampoo, DC rinse out with cold, cold water, Skip ACV rinse part
Day 19: Shampoo, DC follow with ACV rinse
Day 21: Shampoo, DC rinse out with cold, cold water, Skip ACV rinse part
Day 24: Shampoo, DC follow with ACV rinse
Day 27:  Shampoo, DC rinse out with cold, cold water, Skip ACV rinse part
Day 30: Shampoo, DC follow with ACV rinse

Remember no direct heat for 30 days. Only heat you will use is when you sit under a hooded dryer with a plastic cap for 20 minutes twice a week. No blow dryers, flat irons or curling irons. For best results. Remember to rinse shampoo out with warm water, but rinse deep conditioner out with cold water.