New Natural Hair Terms You Should Know

Coily Queens Hair terms you should know

1. Webbing: Hair strands sticking together when being separated. The strands stick together forming a webbing effect. This causes tangles and makes your style frizzy. 

"Try separating a small section of your hair. Does the hair stick together?"

2. Peel apart affect: When your hair separates easily with no resistance, from the tips to the roots. When there is no resistance your twist outs do not have a lot of frizz and you have more curl definition. 

The Crescendo Twist out methods help you create this awesome pull apart effect. Read about it here Read about it here.

3. Oil therapy: Using oils that are specific to your hair needs. Applying them 3 times a week, followed by 10-minute scalp massages. 

More about Oil Therapy here Oil Therapy here

More Oil Therapy

Oil therapy

4. Good hydration: When hair holds moisture for 3 plus days before requiring the application of more moisturizer. Reaching good hydration begins here

5. With the Curl (WTC): Styles that work with the natural formation of coily hair. Twist outs, braid outs, Afros, wash and goes, puffs, anytime you style the hair in its natural state. These are the best styles for hair growth. They are favorable for length retention. 

6. Against the Curl (ATC): Styles that work against your natural curls. These styles cause dryness, tangles or breakage, in most cases. Silk presses, flat irons, blow drying, 

7. Level 3 Elevated Natural: She is serious about caring for her natural hair. She is not interested in molding her hair to mimic European hair. 

8. Hair growth plan (HGP): A written plan for growing your hair. It includes daily care tips and weekly hair care tips. It covers hair growth from under the scalp and length retention. Get the "Double Your Hair Growth Plan". 

Get a customized plan

Get the "Double Your Hair Growth" plan

9. Whip it into submission (WIIS): Manipulating coily hair to do what it does not do naturally. Styles involving, lots of gel, molding and brushing. This causes damage and thinning to your natural hair. 

10. Moon Phase Trimming (MPT): The process of using the energy of the new moon to double and triple your hair growth. Get the best dates to trim right here on Coily Queens Rock. Best dates to trim for hair growth increase!

How to blow out your hair with no damage!

Lots of naturals prefer to blow out their tightly coiled hair. This enables Afro hair to show more length.  The most common way naturals stretch their hair is by blowing it out with a blow dryer. However, blow dryers are very damaging to Afro hair.

Two reasons blow dryers are bad for your hair

1. Blow dryers suck all the moisture from your hair. This makes your already dry hair worst.
2. They cause split ends, thin ends and breakage.

IF YOUR GOAL IS TO GROW YOUR HAIR LONG AND STRONG STAY AWAY FROM BLOW DRYERS AND ELECTRIC BLOW DRYING BRUSHES. 

The smoothest healthiest blow out you can get, is to set your hair with magnetic rollers

Magnetic rollers come small to jumbo sizes. 

HOW TO STRETCH HAIR ON MAGNETIC ROLLERS

1. For the best stretch choose large, extra large or jumbo size magnetic rollers.


2. Apply leave in conditioner to soaking wet hair. Next apply a styling mousse then seal in with oil. 

3. Take skinny sections, and roll hair snug and smooth onto the roller. Allow hair to air dry  for the healthiest set. 

4. Once your hair has fully dried, remove rollers and you will have a nice crisp blow out. From this blowout, you can create your styles and expect more hang time. 

Retwist nightly to maintain stretch.  Do not add anymore water based moisturizer to hair.  The water in the moisturizer will cause your hair to shrink.

How to create better twistouts

TwistOuts are a very popular natural hairstyle. Achieving a bomb well defined twistout is largely desired by most naturals. If you have yet to experience twistout perfection, now you can.  

Join my group, "TwistOut Perfection", and begin your journey towards better looking twistouts,

4c twistout

Learn how to get the best coil definition, no matter your curl type

Learn how to create fuller looking twistouts, even if your hair is not thick. 

Learn the best products for frizz reduction and hold. 

Great definition no frizz!

Learn how to elongate your twistout and reduce shrinkage.

"TwistOut Perfection Group"

Sign up here>>>

You will receive instructions via email on how to enter the group. Within 48 hours of signing up via paypal. You cannot change your email address once you sign up. So be sure to use an accessible email address. 

Let's Twist it 

up to perfection!

Do white clumps and specks constantly ruin your twist out?

1. Reduce the amount of product you use.
Most naturals are to heavy handed with their style products. More product does not necessarily mean better style results. If white product build up is your issue, reduce the amount of product you use by half. As you pour product, make it a habit of putting half of the amount back in the bottle. This will help you so break the habit of overusing products.

2. Test product compatibility before doing your whole head.
You should always use a leave in conditioner under your gel or style product. Unfortunately this is where it can go wrong.  Before you waste time and product, test the compatibility of your products, before doing your whole head. Put a nickel size amount of each product on the back of your hand. Blend the products together. Examine closely how well the two products mix together. Do you see separation? Do you see clumps? Let it settle for 60 seconds. The two products should blend to a clump free smooth consistency. If it does not then do not apply that product combination to your hair. 

3. Stay away from products that are white opaque. 
Buy products that are shear in color. This is a good way to not have white specks form on your hair. Miss Jessie's curling custard is clear color. It also creates great wash and goes and twist outs.This can be a challenge, because most leave ins are white opaque.  Consider using a liquid leave in spray, if this is a constant issue for you. 

4. Dab away excess product when done setting your style. 
A good indication of overusing product, is when you can see excess product oozing out your twists, once you have finished twisting. Instead of leaving that excess product sitting on top of you hair, lightly wipe it away with a mono fiber towel. Or tie down with a scarf so the scarf soaks up some of the product. Tying your hair down with a silk scarf, will also soak up excess product. 

5. Stay away from cheap products.
Cheap ingredients are mostly likely to bead up on your hair. You get what you pay for. Cheap products do not mix well with other products. Invest in all natural products. Purchase your gel and leave in conditioner from the same line. Products from the same line are compatible with each other, in most cases. 

Cold water sealing your twist out

The Coily Queens regimen uses a cold water sealing method to help you achieve better looking twist outs.  Cold water makes the hair cuticle lay flatter. It seals your hair giving you better twist definition, hold and less frizz. Cold water sealing also enables the hair to retain moisture longer.

Your porosity does not matter for this technique!

4 WAYS TO COLD WATER SEAL

1. Cold water quick rinse

This consists of running cold water over your twists for 10 seconds. Follow up with more oil. This works best on your shampoo day. This is done after creating your two strand twists. Apply more moisturizer, after rinsing if needed. 

2. Cold water spray

Put a spray bottle of filtered water in the fridge and let it chill. After completing your two strand twists, spray each twist with cold water.

3. Ice cube sealing

Rub each twist with an ice cube.

4. Cold leave in or styler

Put your leave in conditioner in the refrigerator, until it is cold.  Apply to your hair as you twist it.  

Either one of these cold water sealing methods will give you smoother twist outs, with better coil definition. Choose the one that is best for you. Your porosity does not matter.

Blue Magic Twist Outs

For the last 15 years black women in large numbers have stopped relaxing their hair. We have decided to embrace our natural curls. Many have also given up using cheap products, that contain bad ingredients. Grease is one of those ingredients most naturals stopped using. 

Petroleum has become a taboo ingredient on most natural forums and hair sites. It is commonly believed that petroleum clogs the hair follicles. Thus greatly making your hair grow slow. This is not true. 

SIGN UP TO DOUBLE YOUR HAIR GROWTH!

Despite grease being taboo by most naturals, there is still one grease that remains popular. You guessed it! That old Blue Magic! This grease is an oldie, but goody for some. On youtube you will find dozens of naturals, testifying about how much they love blue magic hair grease. They say, that blue magic gives them the best twist outs ever. Water plus blue magic makes their twist outs pop!  

THE ORIGINAL

SHOULD YOU USE BLUE MAGIC HAIR GREASE?

If you are satisfied with your styling product, I would say, no. But if you have tried several good styling products, for your hair, and you are still not satisfied, this is a good option to try. Petroleum does not clog your hair follicles. The molecular structure is not big enough to clog your hair follicles, nor prevent moisture from getting into your hair. 

HOW I RECOMMEND USING BLUE MAGIC

Apply some Shea butter to freshly washed and conditioned hair. Apply the grease on top of the Shea butter, then create your twists. This should be done on wet hair. Let hair set until dry. You should noticed great definition, more elongation and shine.

Petrolatum, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Lanolin, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Buxus Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaves (Japanese Green Tea), Tocopheryl Acetate, Apocynum Cannabinum Root Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Propylene Glycol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Flower Extract, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Extract, Echinacea Angustifolia Extract, Trigonella Foenum-Graecum Seed Extract, Cola Acuminata Seed Extract, Lawsonia Inermis (Henna) Extract, Fragrance. 

I would not apply it to the scalp, although some swear by it on the scalp. I say stick with more natural oils on the scalp. The Blue Magic grease has several not so great ingredients. The unnatural fragrance, green 6 and yellow 11, just to name a few.  Those are the reasons I would not use it on my scalp. I think this product is okay for the hair, when used sparingly. Once you set your twist out or style, you do not reapply the blue magic for at least 3 days. Doing so will help prevent build up from the grease. 

Although blue magic grease is a popular grease, due to its large size and cheap cost. My favorite grease is Indian Hemp by Kuza. I use it when I straighten my hair. It is a thick grease filled with herbs and good ingredients. It is the only product which helps to keep my curls when I do rollersets or flat irons. 

This is a flat iron with curls set bantu knot style. I used the Kuza Indian Hemp grease. It gives me amazing sheen, hold and keeps my curls from frizzing. 

Black owned product you can find at CVS, Walmart, Target and most Beauty supply stores. Great for shin and sealing in moisture.

CQ Hair Growth & Strengthening Tea

RECIPE

Hibiscus tea (1 tbsp)

Green tea (1 tbsp)

Nettle tea (1 tbsp)

Glycerin (2 tbsp)
12 ounces spring water

Lavender essential oil (1 tsp)

WHO SHOULD USE THIS TEA?
Those wearing braid extensions benefit a great deal from this tea blend. The nettle, hibiscus and green tea add strength to your hair roots. This helps protect your natural hair from the friction of the fake hair swinging back and forth throughout the day. The hibiscus and glycerin feeds the hair moisture, so it does not pop and break. Nettle and lavender are excellent for boosting hair growth. 

LESS SHRINKAGE FOR TWIST OUTS
Use this tea to set your twist outs. Apply to freshly washed hair and seal in with a little grease or castor oil. You will get good definition with less shrinkage than using a creamy product. 

Use this spray as often as you desire.

Store in the fridge when not in use.

Works well when applied to hair cold.

How to fall in love with your natural hair

We commonly concentrate on finding that perfect product and perfecting our style technique. But we spend little time on dealing with our mindset concerning our natural tresses. This is one of the biggest mistakes some women make when returning back to their natural hair. For most it is discovering their natural curls for the first time. I divide the hair journey into 3 parts. It is 25% the products you use, 25% the techniques you use and 50% your mindset towards your hair. One can see how not addressing such a huge part of your journey can be hindering. 

Not being honest about how your truly feel about your hair many times leads to setbacks. Either the person returns back to the relaxer, continuously rocks fake hair or they experience breakage from bad hair care practices. 

Below are some very common negative mindsets black women have towards their hair. Along side each negative mindset I offer some solutions for you. I want you to have the hair you desire, minus the setbacks. Therefore I offer help via some solutions I have seen help ladies tremendously. 

My 4C curl pattern. Smoothed back into a bun by using curls control passion fruit paste by Curls

NEGATIVE MINDSET #1
"After going natural for a year, I hate my curl pattern"

SOLUTIONS:

• Be sure you are seeing your true curl pattern.  Until your hair is hydrated, consistently you will not see your real curl pattern. Work on your hydration. 
• Do a moisture fusion treatment (Nine day moisture therapy)
• Be sure you are following a consistent healthy regimen.
• If you are continuously rocking fake hair, that will mess up your hydration. Thus lay off the fake hair until your hair is healthier hydration wise. Take a 7 months break from fake hair. 

NEGATIVE MINDSET #2
"I do not like how I look with short hair and my hair appears to grow slow."

SOLUTIONS:

• Examine your cleansing regimen. How often are you cleansing your hair?
• Are you following a consistent healthy hair care regimen with natural products?
• Have you measured how much your hair grows each month?
• Is your shrinkage blinding you to how much your hair is actually growing? For some motivation set your hair on magnetic rollers, for a nice stretch. 
• Are you breaking your hair off by doing bad hair care practices?
• Sometimes you need extra help. Sign up for hair growth coaching and start growing the hair you desire.

NEGATIVE MINDSET #3
"I cannot get past the amount of shrinkage I have. "

SOLUTIONS:

• Want less shrinkage use less product.
• After day two of your style, stop applying any type of water or water based product on your hair.
• Use bands to stretch your hair
• Stretch your hair using magnetic rollers, before you create your styles. 
• Allow your hair to air dry, 70% while in big twists. Then set your twist out, on 70% air dried hair. You will have more elongated styles.  

NEGATIVE MINDSET #4
"I love my hair but it takes so long to achieve styles I love."

SOLUTIONS:

• Perhaps it takes you a long time due to tangles. If this is the issue then work on your hydration to reduce your tangles. Do lots of pre poo treatments to combat excessive tangles. 
• Re-evaluate the styles your are trying to achieve. 
• Work consistently perfecting one style. Afro hair is like memory foam, the more you mold it into the same shape, the easier it molds. 
• Examine areas of your style regimen in which you are making them more lengthy than they need to be. 

NEGATIVE MINDSET #5
After I spend hours creating a style, it frizzes up so quickly. So I rather wear fake hair, it is easier. 

SOLUTIONS:

• Pay attention to the weather. Do not try to compete with mother nature, most likely you will lose.
• On  high humidity days or misty days, wear your hair in a puff, bun, ponytail or roll tuck and pin. 
• Invest in some anti humectants. Anti humectants contain ingredients which help the hair to hold its style longer by blocking out the humidity.  Pomades do this very well. 
• Get use to how your frizzy shrunken hair looks.  Fall in love with the truly natural you. 

TRANSFORM YOUR MINDSET TAKE THE 30 DAY CHALLENGE.

CHALLENGE A:   Rock your hair in it's shrunken undefined state for a whole day. Be sure to leave the house. This experience is liberating for those who do not normally wear their hair in its Afro state. 

CHALLENGE B: Rock your natural texture for 30 days. Make journal entries as to how you feel about your hair experience. It will transform how you see your hair. Concentrate on how you feel not what you think other people are thinking. 

Botanical gels a healthier alternative for your wash and goes

Gels are used for defining curls, holding them in place or smoothing down the hair. Commonly used for the wash and go, buns, updos and sometimes a twist out.  You will use gel anytime you want more hold. 

What you apply to the hair strands, will eventually seep into the hair follicles.  Any product which sits on the hair, should be filled with good ingredients. When a gel is filled with a lot of alcohols, proteins, dyes and harsh ingredients. They cause your hair strands to dry out quick, and break. They clog your hair follicles and retard your hair growth. They also lead to major scalp irritations. 

There are many gels which work awesome on coily hair. But the popular ones are filled with lots of bad dyes and ingredients. 

A botanical gel is not harsh like regular gels. They are filled with plant extracts which give the hair hold, without making it crunchy and drying it out. Always expect to pay more for a botanical gel. Consider it the same as buying fresh vegetables versus fast food. 

The most popular gel used by naturals is the eco styler gel. It is cheap and it works for most. However compare the ingredients on your jar of eco styler gel to the ingredients I have listed below for a few botanical gels. 

BIG DIFFERENCE HUH? 
I KNOW?
THE PROOF IS ON THE JAR.

Here are my top pics for botanical gels and custards. 

Kinky Curly Curling Custard (KCCC)
Ingredients:  Water, horsetail, chamomile, nettle and marshmellow, organic aloe vera juice, agave nectar extract, pectin, citric acid, vitamin E, potassium sorbate, natural fragrance.

• Firm, hold no crunch
• Hold lasts up to 3 days.
• Mixes well with most products
• No flaking
• Not sticky, if you do not overuse
• A little goes a long way.
• Lasts a long time. 

Curly Magic curl stimulator
Ingredients:  Aloe Vera, marshmellow root, chamomile, nettle  and horsetail extract, agave nectar extract, Vitamin E, citric acid, Potassium Sorbate, natural fragrance. 

• Aloe Vera based 
• Long lasting definition 
• Firm hold

Order here!

Mielle Organics Honey and Ginger styling gel
Ingredients:  Water, Glycerin, honey, aloe Vera, acrylates polymer, coconut oil, babassu oil, shea butter, maltodextrin/VP polymer, marshmellow extract, Pectin, parfum, Carbomer, Xanthan gum, Dehydroacetic acid, Benzyl alcohol

• Great definition
• Frizz reduction
• 70% organic ingredients

Obia Curl enhancing custard
Ingredients:  Water, Olive oil, grape seed oil, Carbomer, Hydrolyzed wheat protein, egetable glycerin, Gluconolacton and Sodium Benzoate, Xantham gum, Fragrance. 

• PH balanced
• non alchohol
• nourishing oils
• Non drying
• Does not leave hair crunchy. 

Compare the above ingredients with that of cheaper gels such as eco styler gel.

Products which give you moisture for days

How well your hair holds moisture depends on two factors.

1. Health of your hair cuticles

2. The quality of  the product used

In order to lock in moisture your hair must first be moisturized. This means the hair must be wet or the product you use must have water listed first on the bottle. Oils or butters used over dry hair will not moisturize it. The oils and butter will only lubricate and soften the hair. For some people it dries it out even faster. To be sure you have moisturized your hair the best always use a water based product. 

A successful hair care regimen will keep your hair moisturized for 3 days before it requires more product. At the beginning of your hair journey you might find that you need to apply a moisturizer/leave in product everyday. But after 3 years of being natural on a good hair care regimen your hair should retain moisture for 3 or more days. If this is not your case, then re-evaluate your hair care regimen and the moisturizers you use.  

If you do not have a good hair care regimen, start the CoilyQueens Regimen today. Your hair will thank you. 

SIGN UP FOR THE CHALLENGE HERE

Here are 3 moisturizer products, which gives you moisture for days. FOR DAYS!!!!!

1. Camille Rose Curliade
 This is a rich cream water based product. It will give you good twist definition and fullness. This blend of ingredients allows your hair to stay hydrated for days. This means that you use less product so you get more bang for your bucks. Can find it at Target, CVS and most beauty supply stores. You can always order it from amazon link below.  

2. ORi  Essentials  moisturizing leave in conditioner
 This is a rich moisturizing lotion. No parabens,  This product is very thick, white and does not cause build up. Great definition and helps with tangles. This is a glycerin water based moisturizer. It will give you hydration for days. 

3. As I am Double buttercream
Great definition for your twist outs or wash and goes. It is a light cream product. It works well with other products. Locks moisture into your hair for up to a week.  Amazon link below. 

 

No frizz twist outs on natural hair

Here are two awesome products that give great definition and hold for your type 4 hair.

Especially 4C hair!

In the order of awesomeness!

ORDER HERE!

1. Jane Carter Curl Defining Cream

Good ingredients
Controls FRIZZ very well
Great hold and definition
No crunch, white balls, or flakes
Last long, cause a little goes a long way

2. Camille Rose Curlmaker
Awesome for wash and goes
Controls FRIZZ well
Good definition for twist outs
Not crunchy and no flakes

FIND CAMILLE ROSE AT THE BEAUTY SUPPLY STORE, CVS OR TARGET

TRY ONE THESE TODAY, IF YOU ARE STILL LOOKING FOR A STYLE PRODUCT TO COMBAT FRIZZ.

Tip to combat frizz

Seal your hold product in, with a anti humectant. Anti humectants keep moisture from entering your hair cuticles so quickly. Your hair will hold its pattern longer and not puff up as quick.

Remember our Afro hair is not always frizzing up. When moisture enters our hair it curls up and that is natural.  While this natural occurrence, can work against most style choices, shrinkage is not evil.  We have been conditioned to think, it is something awful our hair does.  But it is truly a natural thing.