Blue Magic Twist Outs

For the last 15 years black women in large numbers have stopped relaxing their hair. We have decided to embrace our natural curls. Many have also given up using cheap products, that contain bad ingredients. Grease is one of those ingredients most naturals stopped using. 

Petroleum has become a taboo ingredient on most natural forums and hair sites. It is commonly believed that petroleum clogs the hair follicles. Thus greatly making your hair grow slow. This is not true. 

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Despite grease being taboo by most naturals, there is still one grease that remains popular. You guessed it! That old Blue Magic! This grease is an oldie, but goody for some. On youtube you will find dozens of naturals, testifying about how much they love blue magic hair grease. They say, that blue magic gives them the best twist outs ever. Water plus blue magic makes their twist outs pop!  

THE ORIGINAL

SHOULD YOU USE BLUE MAGIC HAIR GREASE?

If you are satisfied with your styling product, I would say, no. But if you have tried several good styling products, for your hair, and you are still not satisfied, this is a good option to try. Petroleum does not clog your hair follicles. The molecular structure is not big enough to clog your hair follicles, nor prevent moisture from getting into your hair. 

HOW I RECOMMEND USING BLUE MAGIC

Apply some Shea butter to freshly washed and conditioned hair. Apply the grease on top of the Shea butter, then create your twists. This should be done on wet hair. Let hair set until dry. You should noticed great definition, more elongation and shine.

Petrolatum, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Lanolin, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Buxus Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaves (Japanese Green Tea), Tocopheryl Acetate, Apocynum Cannabinum Root Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Propylene Glycol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Flower Extract, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Extract, Echinacea Angustifolia Extract, Trigonella Foenum-Graecum Seed Extract, Cola Acuminata Seed Extract, Lawsonia Inermis (Henna) Extract, Fragrance. 

I would not apply it to the scalp, although some swear by it on the scalp. I say stick with more natural oils on the scalp. The Blue Magic grease has several not so great ingredients. The unnatural fragrance, green 6 and yellow 11, just to name a few.  Those are the reasons I would not use it on my scalp. I think this product is okay for the hair, when used sparingly. Once you set your twist out or style, you do not reapply the blue magic for at least 3 days. Doing so will help prevent build up from the grease. 

Although blue magic grease is a popular grease, due to its large size and cheap cost. My favorite grease is Indian Hemp by Kuza. I use it when I straighten my hair. It is a thick grease filled with herbs and good ingredients. It is the only product which helps to keep my curls when I do rollersets or flat irons. 

This is a flat iron with curls set bantu knot style. I used the Kuza Indian Hemp grease. It gives me amazing sheen, hold and keeps my curls from frizzing. 

Black owned product you can find at CVS, Walmart, Target and most Beauty supply stores. Great for shin and sealing in moisture.

Clarifying your hair

Clarifying the hair involves using a stronger than normal cleanser to remove product build up from your hair.

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5 REASONS TO CLARIFY:

1.  If you do not wash your hair on a weekly basis

2.  If you use gels on a regular basis

3.  If you use petroleum or silicones, on a regular basis

4.  Clarifying before your protein treatments helps to ensure that the protein adheres to your strands better. 

5.  If your hair was styling good then it begins to not style as well, doing a deep cleansing could help to revive your hair. 

PLEASE NOTE!

Deep cleansers and clarifyers have a higher PH than your regular shampoos. 

Clarifyers cleanse the hair deeply. This includes stripping the hair of its natural oils.

For this reason extra care should be taken to deep condition well after using a clarifying deep cleanser.

Here are my tops pick for clarifying deep cleansers. 

Shea Moisture black soap shampoo

Jane Carters Hydrating Invigorating shampoo

As I am clarifying conditioner

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Natural choices:

Moroccan red clay *(PH 8)

Bentonite clay *(PH 8-9)

Black soap *(PH 9)

Castile soap *(PH 11)

*the PH is an estimate it depends on how your natural product is created

Straightening 4C tightly coily hair

This regimen is an important  key to heat straightening tightly coily hair and reducing your chances of heat damage. 

The following regimen should be done 3 weeks prior to flat ironing. 

Follow these steps for 3 weeks prior to heat straightening your hair. 

Notice you apply the aphogee 2 step treatment day 19, this is 3 days before your flat ironing day.

Be sure what you do on what day. The steps are very specific.

PRODUCTS NEEDED BEFORE YOU BEGIN:

Clarifying or deep cleansing shampoo

Moisturizing non sulfate shampoo

Aphogee 2 step treatment

Moisturizing deep conditoner

Leave in conditioner

Organic Apple cider vinegar

Silicone heat protectant

Anti humectant

Ceramic flat iron

Seamless comb

DAY 22 STEP BY STEP:

Step one) Shampoo hair with a shampoo that has a PH of  6.0-7.0.

Step two) Deep condition with a moisturizing conditioner using heat for 20 minutes.

Step three) Apply a protein spray to your hair strands to protect them from the excessive heat.

Step four) Apply a good leave in conditioner

Step five) Braid hair into large sections and allow your hair to air dry. Do not blow dry this is a good way to get heat damage by applying double heat. Air dry only.

Step six) Apply more leave in conditioner then apply heat protection that contains silicones. Silicones help protect your hair from heat  straightening.  Allow the product to air dry on hair before you flat iron or press your hair.

Step seven)  To reduce the chances of heat damage keep heat tool between 350 and 400 degrees.
Do not do more than 3 passes per section.

Step eight)  The flat iron
Detangle hair with seamless comb
Gently smooth flat iron over small section of hair
Comb through section with seamless comb again. (repeat if needed)
The next pass uses the comb chase method.
Your hair should be straight using this method.
If not then make your section smaller the next time.

After you complete each section smooth your fingers or comb through section to see if hair breaks or falls out. If it does then you are using to high of heat, reduce heat for next heat pass.

Flat iron 2014

Smooth a little grease or anti humectant over each section as you finish it. This will help keep hair from reverting so quickly. Rolling the hair with a large roller will also help.

Use after heat straightening. Helps to prevent reversion  and gives amazing sheen. 

THINGS TO REMEMBER ABOUT HEAT STRAIGHTENING

Your flat ironed hair should feel soft and not break easily. 
If your hair feels rough or hard, then the products you use are not good enough for your hair.
Search for better products to give you more moisture.
Also examine how healthy your hair is before you heat straighten.
Never heat straighten dehydrated damaged hair.

Keeping your natural hair moisturized

 Once you cleanse, condition and hydrate your hair, you must lock that moisture into your hair. The goal is to keep your hair luxurious and soft for at least 3 days, before you need to apply more product. The best way to keep the moisture from escaping your hair so quickly is to use a sealant product. 

---SEALANT

A oil or butter that is applied on top of your moisturizer. This oil or butter helps the hair hold water for longer periods. A sealant or sealer is the last product you apply to the hair. On top of locking in moisture it should also give your hair a nice sheen. 

In order for the sealant to work, you must already have moisture in your hair. That moisture must come from water. Choose a moisturizer, water based leave in conditioner or plain water, then seal in that moisture with a sealant product. 

THE TOP 5 PRODUCTS FOR SEALING IN MOISTURE

1. Kuza Indian Hemp Scalp Treatment

This is a grease and it softens and seals in moisture extremely well. 
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2. Shea butter

Be sure to purchase a good quality, unrefined shea butter. 

3. Jojoba oil

This oil is actually a wax. When applied on top of moisturized hair, it does a great job of locking in that moisture.  It also reduces frizz and stimulates better hair growth. Jojoba oil closely matches our natural sebum. 
ORDER JOJOBA OIL 

4. Cupuacu butter

A very light weight butter, that delivers amazing softness to your hair and controls frizz. Will seal in the moisture and leave your hair soft and bouncy. 
ORDER CUPUACU BUTTER 

5. Pomades
A pomade usually consist of a combination of butters, waxes and petroleum. But pomades come in many combinations. They normally come in a solid waxy consistency. 

Some pomades to check out:
Cantu hair dressing pomade
Got2B glued define & shine pomade
Aveda Anti Humectant pomade

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There are several different ways of sealing in moisture.

Quick easy sealing:
This can be done when you want less shrinkage and more body to your twist outs. After you shampoo and deep condition. You skip the leave in and other style products. You take advantage of the soaking wet hair. In this case the water alone is your leave in. You seal that water into your hair by using either an oil, butter or grease. Style hair as usual. 

This works great as a style refresher between shampoos

• Lightly mist hair with water
• Smooth on shea butter or jojoba oil
• Restyle and cover hair
• Let hair set overnight
• In the morning you should have definition, elongation, shine and softness. 

CHOOSE ONE OF THESE 5 GREAT PRODUCTS FOR SEALING IN MOISTURE, AND YOUR HAIR SHOULD NEVER GO DRY!

The top 5 best products for your hair!

1. Best leave in conditioner

Great for all hair types, long lasting,  easily available at most stores. 

2. Best cleanser

CQ CLAY WASH (DIY)
Apply to hair
Cover with a plastic cap
1 to 3 hours
Rinse

  

3. Best sealant

4. Best deep conditioner

5. Best growth oil

Liquid Gold sulfur oil available online only, see link in right hand column to order.